Making jeans!

I bought this Butterick jeans pattern to ma ke up an order so I got free postage. That was probably 8-10 years ago. I thought,  well a jeans pattern can't really be a mistake but in all honesty I had zero desire to sew jeans.

There are certain fabrics in my stash I particularly want to use this year one of which is a rather nice khaki stretch needlecord. I have 2m of this. I started off thinking of 70s burda's because I have loads and I  want fancy some flares. I made a few pairs of stretch flares the last couple of years but always by bodging the same free pattern which is really for yoga pants. My flares have all worked and been wearable but I reckon I could do better so I spent days looking through my vintage 70's magazines only to realise that 1970s women were it would seem bigger than me and I also never knew their trousers have no pockets!

So then, back to modern patterns. It was not all a waste of time though because I have added a few to-makes to my ever increasing list! But flared jeans type trousers, No!

1990s and 2000s styles were better because they usually do have pockets.

Well, I don't mind making clothes with no pockets, but I do like pockets in my jeans and I cannot conceive of flared trousers / jeans in corduroy with no pockets of any kind. Then I remembered this pattern so I found it out from it's storage, (most of my sewing stuff is in storage due to a very small house and we had intended to move to a different country. For now the move us on hold for family reasons, but the stuff remains stored in the hopes we eventually get it sorted.)

So I sorted out the right pattern pieces and worked out the best way to get them out of this piece of fabric and to see if this is going to work. My fabric measures 140cm wide. The pattern is for 160cm or 115cm. I only have 2m but hopefully this will fit and I can make some flared trousers- with pockets. 

Well I got the bits cut out a few weeks ago and started to make them. Well nearly 4 weeks to be exact but this jeans making is something you need to spend a little time over. Its not difficult but it is time consuming.

On first look the pattern directions were really good but as I started to sew I found loads of problems. The basic directions are OK. But in some instances they say to finish the edges here and then do X. But not in all instances and I decided ( wrongly) to trust the directions not my own self. 

So now I have a raw edge on the inside crotch seam and would have other problems if I had not decided after doing that to add-lib. Annoying I actually thought about overlocking that seam too before top stitching but the previous directions had been correct so I trusted the pattern. There is also a problem with the inside fly cover. I will not enclose the seams next time. Directions say to do so but it makes the fly too small. It still works but next time I make these I will need to remember so hopefully blogger will still be going then so I am able to look up what else I change.

I have not yet finished these because its a big job but to be honest its actually straight forward to make these and relatively easy.  You just need to have the confidence and to believe in your own understanding of stitching and as I have discovered don't expect a pattern to tell you everything however good it seems. After all I am used to thinking for myself with the likes of Burda so why would any other pattern company be different? 

A lesson learned!

Then I went by the pattern markings for the back pocket positions and decided, luckily to pin and try these on before doing the flat felled side seams. The pockets were well out from where they should be for my clothes size! 

I took the pockets off and repositioned but the move has slightly marked my fabric. I am hoping it will wear in and be less notice-able. 

The inside pockets have a contrast lining as does the inside of the waistband though I actually did have enough fabric to make them in the same cord fabric. 

I am not very happy with the zip but next time it should be better.

So after moving the pockets I took the plunge and did the side seams as flat fells and then did the inside seams and except for a waistband I have a pair of jeans. 

Perhaps if all goes to plan next week I can actually say I made a pair of jeans and show you my photos. Fingers crossed...........

Have a lovely weekend,

Bracken