Saturday 30 May 2020

Madalynne free Sierra bra version one - Camo




This is my first attempt at the free Sierra bra which is a wrap top. This could easily be a cropped top as well as a bra. I love this. Its kind of warrior woman-ish and would be great for a younger woman than me in faux leather.As a top rather than a bra of course.

 



































Its not very well made but I have another 3 cut out ready to sew so hopefully by version 4, I will have achieved a decent bra top.

This is a bit weird because you only have one 27 inch long strap so its basically a halter. I spent ages - I mean hours - looking for my black pre-made straps only to realise, after I found them, I need to make my own. Well luckily I have some stretch black velvet bra strap material which is what I used her. It kind of contrasts but works.


I did all of this bra with a normal machine on zig zag. It works but I reckon I can do better.

 

Inside along side seam I zigzaged to enclose the seams.
Outside along side seam
Anyway other than I am rather fat right now, and have a muffin top which ruins the pictures,  I reckon this is a really nice bra which is going to add considerable comfort under my normal work clothing.

If only I was young enough to wear as a summer top!


 Fabric is odd bits left over from my camo trousers and lined with bright cornflower blue mesh which I have used for all sorts and still have meters left. Most recent was my Partly Sunny Frock. I used blue picot elastic because I had it available. I think it might be better with thicker elastic at the bottom edge.
 I used bikini fasteners because I could not find the correct size of pre-made bra fasteners ( hooks and eyes).So its all a bit of a bodge job. But it works and I like it so much I have cut out several more!



The bikini fasteners work so well I think I prefer them to the proper fasteners and I am intending to buy more of these. They are from Ebay and come in several colours.


I sincerely recommend this pattern.

I actually read the instructions after making this so made  a mistake. I stretched my elastic while sewing. It says not to stretch!

Unfortunately I also did this with version 2 which I will show once I have finished it off. I now need to make a third bra without stretching the elastic.I have two more cut out.

This does however still fit despite my mistake because I tried it out today. I also need to know if the catches stay done up else I cannot wear this to work etc. It all works fine. I wore it half a day so far and I am happy!
Bracken

Cerena top and trouser hack

 This is my second Cerena. This time though I made the top rather than the Romper. Its exactly the same though possibly a bit easier due to not being attached to the trousers. The matching trousers are also the Cerena but this is a hack because Cerena includes three lengths. Shorts, knee length (shorts/ culottes) and the long trousers I made previously.  

This is a very comfy hot weather outfit which borders on pyjamas. I love it. I also very much prefer the separates to the previous Romper version. Thats my own preference tho. Nothing wrong with the Romper I just decided its too much hassle to wear it - life wise that is. 
Generally Rompers seem to be aimed at festivals and similar but I cannot think of worse clothing to be honest. eg having to take everything off at a festival to go to the loo is not my idea of easy clothing. Portaloos etc!!!

I did conside this fabric for my original Romper but I did not want to waste my fabric by making either of the shorter versions and did not have enough of this lovely fabric for my long trouser version so I went with a cropped trouser length.In the end as I said I prefer it as separates.


The back is probably a bit lower on me than its meant to be. It should cover a bra strap apparently!
Maybe I should go down a size next time?

According to the pattern dimensions this is my size but I know from when making patternes from the Big Four companies that all say I am a size 12 and in the end I usually end up being an 8 or sometimes a size 10.  Maybe Rebecca Page patterns are also generous. Still better bigger than too small and waste my fabric. They can always be adjusted but not made larger once cut.
 



Yes for me definitely separates are better. This is a good pattern though, because you get the trousers /shorts and top and can make a top with back buttons, and both top and trousers can be made in woven fabric or in a stretch jersey. It would also be dead easy to add a basic gathered waist, dirndle skirt to the top instead of the trousers. That would give a nice sundress.

See you next week
Bracken




Thursday 28 May 2020

Cherry fabric Kobenhaven number 6 by How to do Fashion




Another stash buster for both pattern and fabric!


And another item thats stretching me - as in I would not go out and buy this because I have become very boring and staid and middle aged in my clothing. Time to stretch my boundaries because I have all these lovely patterns so need to stop making basics and get on with making interesting things. Thats why I began sewing in the first place. I previously made the Cerena Romper a couple of weeks ago and that was a serious risk for me. A step out of my comfort zone. And I love it.

So is this dress. But long ago I bought the pattern so I need to start making all this stuff and step out of my clothing rut and be who I want to be again.

I bought the pattern years ago as part of the Monthly Stitch Indie Pattern month. I put it together a year or so ago and never made it up.

The cherry fabric is stretch cotton sateen bought as an end of roll for £10 for 3m at the same time as I also bought the patterned fabric I used for my trousers.
I actually regretted both of these purchases because although I love the fabrics, neither is suitable for work clothing. I might get away with a top I suppose. I have enough of each fabric left over to attempt to make some work tops so thats on my to-do list.


Though I really do not want to waste nice fabric on something I intend to be work clothing that if I end up not liking the design as work worthy I will probably also not then wear it for "play" because I wear very different clothing for work and play.

Its not just the fabric choices its the styles and designs. Even skirt length etc. Since I have tattoos I keep them well covered at work. My workplace would not appreciate them despite what the world may say about equality. Sometimes you just have to toe the line and play the game so to speak. I am not condoning this. I hate it, but life has proved thats just how it works. In my world anyway. I was not fortunate enough to make it as an actress or rock star or even a writer so I have to be "normal" at work. Thats means I get to keep my job and even do well at it.

Anyway thats enough about work ethics.

This is the Kobenhaven dress version 1. I decided to use this pattern which I really liked when I bought it despite its not really at all my style.


I sewed the top first since I was not too sure of the size. By my measurements I am between two sizes. I went for the smaller size since that was the closest to my measurements but was worried it would not fit so decided to sew it first as a single layer and try it out. It turned out quite big so I then cut the lining for the top from the same fabric.

I could not get the pleats on the bodice to be identical for both sides. I unpicked and resewed several times and just could not get this right. The unpicking meant I was causing the fabric to fray and I was getting very frustrated. The two sides never came out the same so would just look rubbish when worn so in the end I gathered instead. That works. Though I wish I had just sewn the two fronts together then gathered instead of doing as the pattern says and (pleating) gathering each side of the front seperately. I also decided to sew a line of stitches to catch the front bodice down to the lining. This was sewn through both outer layer and lining. I am not sure if it makes much difference. Its still not right but I decided it was time to stop fiddling.

I shortened the skirt length before cutting by about 6 inches or 15 cm so by quite a lot. I want this above knee though and hate pencil skirts.Then if its a bit shorter theres a reasonable chance I will actually wear this. Long skirts seem to stay in the wardrobe and never get worn with just one exception and thats a very long faux leather skirt I made. I do wear that one. Its stretch and comfy though and not restricting at all.



However, as it went together I was very aware this dress is not really my usual style. I was toying with using a totally different skirt for example using my The Vampires Wife style skirt blocks for this instead of the skirt it comes with. I am not sure about the front pleats on the skirt which make it a tulip skirt shape. When I put it together I was even more unsure. I showed my partner. At this point I had not sewn the zip in but the rest was together.

My partner though said it looks very cute. Well thats not something I ever remember him saying about any dress before, so I decided to go with this after all. It must be ok!


The only invisible zip I have is white not cream but I think it will do. Its a bit long but I remember lots of different directions on websites and patterns saying you can just cut the excess off invisible zips so I have used that. I have not yet cut the end off. I know I will need to sew over the zip itself to keep the two sides together etc. Its just I am worried to actually cut it. Its very long though so I really will have to deal with that soon.
 

I am not sure if I will make the version 2 of this, though I am tempted. I will see how much I wear this one first I think. I also have no suitable fabric. Though having said that I suspect this would fit perfectly well in a non-stretch woven as well.  I thought if it was made in stretch it would allow for the fact I am between sizes. The pattern does not say you need stretch and its not as tight as I was expecting so I could make a non-stretch version of this and I think it will still fit me.

I think this makes a lovely summer sun dress. Certainly it is adventurous for me to wear this and that has to be good for me.
.
Bracken


Thursday 21 May 2020

Cerena Romper in green velvet


I do not think I would go out and buy this romper from any shop but I love it. I only have this because I sew and it gets boring sewing the same styles over and over. Basics are good but variety is as well. When I began my sewing adventure I wanted to make interesting clothing, but even then its very easy to end up making your favourite patterns over and over. Yes, basics are brilliant but variety matters too.

Sewing allows me to indulge in adventures with clothing that I had as a young woman when I was very adventurous and tried out new things all the time. Rare was the month I never bought something new to wear. I enjoyed, like most young girls, a very varied wardrobe of clothing. In recent years I have kind of become stuck in a rut clothing-wise and wear the same styles all the time.So having achieved a wearable wardrob of clothing its time I broadened my horizons and made some "different" items.

This is the Cerena Romper from Rebecca Page patterns.The pattern is for both jersey and woven fabrics. It has options for with and without pockets and elastic or normal ankles, shorts medium length or long trousers. Being my first ever Rebecca Page make I decided to keep everything simple, so I sewed the jersey version without pockets. That was a mistake.  I should have made it with pockets. Pockets are so useful.


The jersey version is ideal for what I currently want but I think this could work in various fabrics. For example it could be made in sequins for a Christmas party, a pretty print for summer or pin stripes and a plain white cotton top for a more formal look. It would work for clubbing, a restaurant, a holiday in the sun or as I want it as lounge-wear for early morning trips to the shower or late afternoon BBQs.

I made this for a camping holiday. I expect it will be cold in the early morning and evenings and need a lounge suit to wear then. Our proposed holiday is Scotland doing the 500 route, but since we are still in lockdown and its meant to be next month I suspect it will not happen. However, I have to keep faith and keep going etc, so am still getting my holiday wardrobe together even if it never takes place.

Anyway this will be great for simply lounging round at home.


The pattern went together really well and was relatively easy. I used the Quick glance guide rather than the extended instructions ( which could be very useful if you do not sew often) and used an overlocker with twin needle to sew this.

It was a relatively fast make. Its made in a stretch velvet velour in an olive/kahki green which I used for several previous sews. This is the last bit I have of this fabric.

Previous makes are a top and my slip dress and  a very simple dress based on squares of fabric.


I love the colour of this though its not the best quality fabric. It was one of my Ebay bargains a few years ago now so I am still stash busting too😀




The hardest part for me, making this was the neck tie. Probably that is due to my making this in velvet/ velour because I ended up making 4 versions of this and none worked. It just refused to turn inside out in either nap direction. Then I turned this fabric reverse out but again could not turn it, so I in the end I just folded it over reverse side out so the plain side of the fabric shows not the velour which refused to slip, and so there were no raw edges, and sewed with the twin needle straight down the middle of the tie. Its not such a nice finish as turning it properly but does work and being the reverse of the fabric it slips Ok but not too much, and tones perfectly with the main suit fabric.I personally would not bother to sew the trouser darts next time I make this since with the elasticated waist I think they are not really needed but it depends how you want your clothing to look. If making this in a woven then they would be essential to get the fit because the trousers in the woven have a back zip. I really like that this is a very multi-fabric and multi-look pattern for both wovens and stretch jersey. You could make so many different versions.

I also need to make the trouser legs a bit longer next time if not adding the elastic. Thats a minor alteration though. I had to have elastic ankles because otherwise these would have been a bit short. Thats not an issue because I think this looks great anyway with gathered ankles and kind of fits the velvet slouchy look too.

I am actually not a great fan of jumpsuits - or rompers as they have recently become. Previously they were knonw as playsuits in the 90s. I hade a serious dislike of them as a teen associating them with Sheena Easton. Not at all my style. But in the early 2000s I had a couple of shorts versions which I did wear on holiday in Spain and I thought for a holiday look in Scotland in a slightly warmer fabric this could be good.


I would also not normally feel comfortable with a baggy halter neck since I hate the "loose boob" feeling but as a lounge suit its great.

I don't have a problem with a tight fit halter neck though. I like to feel everything is held in place!

This needs a strapless bra really or to be young enough for it not to matter.

I find it very comfortable to wear though and it will be brilliant to slip on early in the morning or at the end of the day as lounge-wear.

 
 
One things for sure, I have discovered a new source of interesting patterns in Rebecca Page patterns which has expanded my comfort zone with sewing. Always thats a good thing.
Bracken

Thursday 14 May 2020

Almost an Aran


This is from one of my 80s knitting mags.



I am trying to continue with my New Years Resolution to use each magazine at least once.


That means its been worth me hoarding them all these years despite until this year I have never knitted anything from them.

Lockdown makes this easier to achieve, since I have loads of time with no work.


 Well this particular jumper was a challenge.

 
It is also the most near to perfect jumper I have knitted so far, since I returned to knitting after my operation back in October 2019.

 
 
Its not quite an aran because its a chunky weight yarn. On top of that I doubled the mohair type yarn the pattern told me to use to make it work better because I had a right mix of yarns all bought second hand from ebay sellers back in 2016. I do not much like the pale coloured cotton ribbon mix yarn and I have not enough of the various blues so rather than just have stripes of different yarns with different fibre compsitions which would possible be noticible, I decided it would tie it all together better if I have a strand that is the same stuff running through the entire jumper.


Hence its a mottled yarn effect but it does mean the stripes of all different kinds of yarns work. The end result is it all looks like one type of yarn despite being made up of all sorts of oddments.


The "white" is a mix of pale yellow/cream ribbon and mohair and pale blue ribbon and mohair which is itself made of two strands of yarn. To make this work I used the pale blue on the bottom ribbing and  all of the sleeves and the pale yellow on the body, pocket ribbing and neck ribbing.

The body has royal blue mohair mix which is a lower grade of 52% mohair. Then a dark navy high quality thermal 80% mohair and finally most of the jumper has a bright sky blue mohair which is 80% mohair. By mixing the ribbon yarn throughout with the mohair stripes it works well and ties it all together

Oh and the inside of the pockets is a similar blue to the sky blue but not quite the same colour but does not notice after making up. As I said this is made from oddments!

The pattern said to knit this on needles sizes 4mm and 5.5mm. Because I had an extra thick yarn due to the two yarns being used together I swapped to 5mm and 6.5mm. Despite this it has actually turned out about the same gauge and overall size. Though I do think from the picture I have one repeat less than in the magazine, but it measures the same in my swatch!.Thats weird because I am a loose knitter so most often the gauge comes out bigger not smaller than the pattern. Anyway I am not sure what is ging on with the tension but it works for me.

In the end then I have one strand of blue mohair type with one strand ( made up of two strands) of ribbon yarn. This means I needed to ensure every stitch had all 3 strands. I did drop one strand a couple of times which was a pain because I then had to drop stitches to pick back up again. And that was a killer with the cables. In the end when I made mistakes I just ripped the whole lot back and reknitted. Some times if I made another mistake I ended up doing that 3 or 4 times for a short part of the knitting. I kept forgetting the bobbles as well. But it was easier and quicker to completely rip it back than trying to sort it the usual way by dropping the stitch and picking up correctly.

I have never knitted pockets before. That was a learning curve.
 


 Then the V neck. I have done one once before but that was in the mid 80s and with my mum directing me. I could not at all fathom how to domitres. You Tube is a wonderful tool!



The pattern has a folded over V neck but I do not really like that look. It was popular int he 80s and it seems nearly all Vnecks from that time were that style. I prefer the 50s ( and earlier) type of mitred V.

Well my Vneck is quite a bit higher than my pattern. Thats an accident. It works though and will probably be warmer than a lower V neck would be. I am actually considering doing a V neck on my current knit which is lace. Lace for me is more of a challenge than cables. I find once the cable is set its pretty easy. Its also not boring which plain knitting is. I really enjoyed this jumper. Its taken quite a while. I have not managed to knit often since my hip recovered and have done more sewing.
This is going to be my over jumper as in I want to wear it over another jumper or a fleece to take the dogs walks in winter.

Thats another reason for the pockets. I always have problems with my keys! The pockets do make it hang a bit "off" at the front when my hands are not in them but to be hoenst I do not care.

Despite I love the cable pattern this is not a fashion jumper its purely for practicality. Thats also why I deliberately made the sleeves long so I can pull them right down over my mitts to keep my hand warm on long dog walks in the snow and ice. It was certainly far too hot to be wearing this today when we took the photos.


I have to knit cables because I get bored if I do so called easier plain knitting. The cable patter actually tok less time than my previous recent knits because I never really go bored. Its a shame because I do like cables but not as much as some other looks. Still if thats the way to make myself knit up all the yarn in the stash its the way forward. Knitting helps my hands which have severe swelling through arthritis. Strange realy that doing something that hutrs can make your hand works better but it really does so if at all possible I really need to continue knitting.

Then theres the upcycling thing. All the yarn here is ethical in that its old. People are selling their old odd balls of mohair from the 80s. Its generally better quality than the yarn I have bought recently new. Also I do not feel ( as a vegan) that I should buy new mohair unless it comes from animals allowed to live their lives fully without cruelty or slaughter. I see no issues if they are allowed to though despite others tell me I should. I know there are "named sheep" yarns available though they are not common where the sheep who must be shorn are never slaughtered. The price of the yarn or knitted garment goes towards their upkeep. I like that idea. I can see nothing wrong with wearing that either. There is no doubt in my mind that an acrylic yarn will never be as warm or hard wearing as a real wool or mohair yarn. Upcycling is my way of dealing with this.

Stay safe, and happy crafting, cooking and living
Bracken

Thursday 7 May 2020

Jamesia wide leg skulls and rainbow trousers





These are my first pair of cotton - non-stretch fabric Jamesia Trousers which is a free Mood Fabrics pattern. I have made two pairs before from stretch fabric so Imade a smaller si\ze to get the fit right. This meant these were a slight risk because I did not know what size to make them. In the end I just went up a size. Whereas my previous two pairs are pull on these have a side zip. Although I have made a slight error by putting the side zip into the right hand side not the usual left hand side of the trousers. Since AntiBrand ( the Goth brand) do this anyway I think whatever! I have a bought pair of AntiBrand trousers with this. Its a bit strange when you are used to the normal left hand side zip but there is really no reason why it must be on the left not on the right.
  
I like them!

I have had the fabric which is 100% cotton, for probably 5 years so yet another stash buster. I am enjoying this part of lockdown I must admit. The time to do what I enjoy. Sadly less so the improsonment which means I do not get to wear any of my new clothes to go out somewhere. Not even to go food shopping. Never mind. Hopefully that will end soon though I am happy enough not going to work. You cannot stay for ever locked in though - well I do hope not!

 A slightly weird pose! 

I was trying to show you the flared leg.
 

 The top is scuba and is made based on the Mood Fabrics free Bixa sweatshirt top pattern, though I did change the sleeves slightly to eliminate the top section and just have the normal sleeve with the overlay. You can read about my versions of the Bixa here:
https://brackencrafts.blogspot.com/2020/03/bixa-top.html
https://brackencrafts.blogspot.com/2020/04/pink-flares-and-bixa-version-2.html

Thanks for popping by and stay safe
Bracken