Thursday 28 January 2021

Sportswear tops - but not quite!

 I made two new tops from scuba.
 
 
Yes I am holding my stomach in and I still have bulges!
 

 
The pattern is Lisette B6295. Leggings are made here. They are both meant to be exercise tops but I intend to use them as underwear. I use exercise tops most days as both an alternative to ordinary bras and an item to do sport in. So for me they are dual purpose and very much a part of my day-to-day wardrobe. 
These are not as tight as real exercise tops, for this reason, because it can be uncomfortable wearing the real thing all day long instead of a bra whereas these are minimally supportive and I think look really good. I previously made the leggings from this pattern. I really must make another pair because I love them though these tops will not be matching my leggings by any standards.
 
They are both made from bargain basement fabrics which to be honest I have had for ages and never got round to using. This is pretty heavy weight scuba crepe but actually works well when lined with powermesh. 
 



You can see the bright cornflower blue power mesh lining and the cross over woven back straps. They have a band of elastic at the bottom edge. I am not sure whether to turn this under a second time yet and shorten the top but will wear it first and decide if its comfortable after a day at work.
The black top is the same as the yellow but the photos were not as easy to see so I am just posting the yellow version here. I sewed the elastic a bit rubbish on the yellow version as you can see from the first photo and it pulls a little to one side - I never pinned properly and sewed uneveny stretched. Never mind this is underwear.


 
The beige mesh top was made ages ago but I found it kept rolling up at the wrists so I have added picot elastic at the neck and sleeve edges. It works well now and helps hide my post Christmas bulges. 
I have no idea if I ever posted this top but its just flesh coloured powermesh that I picked up cheap somewhere. 

You can see the sides are very low on both of these. Thats because I cut the size I am meant to be according to the packet. When I sewed this up its about 2 inches or 5cm too wide on BOTH sides so I took this in loads and its still large really. That suits my purpose and my comfort zone but really it means that from measuring my finished tops against the pattern pieces I am actually smaller than the XS which I find hard to believe. I will make another version eventually and check if thats correct.







I do like this pattern though suspect I am going to have to fiddle around a bit to get the next one to fit properly. The very low sides are great for underwear but not so good if I really want to do exercise in this I think. 

Then I had a go at another pattern. This I have to say I do not like at all. 
Generally I quite like the Rebecca Page patterns. They have really good instructions and I have learned a lot from using them but this exercise top does not work for me at all.
 
This is the Add-on pattern for the Rebecca Page Advanced bralette. I was really excited. I had been eyeing up the bralette pattern for some time. The Add-on has lots of pictures of lovely looking variations on a basic sports top. I had not made the original basic bralette but decided to dive straight in and try the add-on with a twist back.I had to take this one in in by 2 inches on each size as well so maybe there is something wrong with the way I do my measuring!
 
Again this ruins the shape and makes my arm holes very low. This doesn't matter for my purpose since I want these to use as comfortable underwear and not for the gym. Or if worn in the gym I will have a top over them.

Well what a disappointment!
 
I am not at all happy with my makes using this pattern. They look ok here when photographed flat, but they simply will not fit. I spent a full two weeks taking appart and remaking these. They are made with an overlocker so not an easy task. I still persisted. It was a complete waste of time and materials.

I made view G of this top with the twisted straps. I love the picture on the pattern and have wanted to make some item with twists for ages but not until now got round to it.

The orange fabric is a stretch lycra dress fabric (50% stretch and recovery so better stretch than the pattern says you need) the same as I made very successful sports leggings from. I cycle in these leggings regularly and have also used for ballet, pilates and yoga so a big success. So the problem is not the orange fabric!

Then the white and black fabrics are both swimwear fabrics so very stretchy (about 80%). Again I do not think its the fabric causing the issues. I also made the correct size for my measurements according to the instructions. In fact I did everything exactly as directed.

This top comes out a good 4 inches larger than my commercial RTW sports top.  Thats despite I made my recommended size. Of course I should have measured that RTW top as well before I began but I trusted the pattern designers.
 
I noticed another RP sewist has taken in the top by 22cm which is probably about how much smaller it should be on me as well I think. She also thought it was a sports top. Since its double layered its hassle to take in. I have already spent far too long messing around with these so easier to make another. From a different pattern entirely! Which turned out to be the Lisette.

Oh, and by the way this top measures exactly what the pattern says the finished top should do for my size so I think the sizing is way out to what it should be. At least if you want to use it for sport anyway.

The Rebecca Page Customer services team since told me its not meant to be an exercise top pattern but a " bralette" so worn over a bra. Weird if you ask me! Is a sports top not then a bralette? I thought all cropped tops these days were bralettes and this looks like a sports top. Its not styled like something you would wear a bra under so its deceptive when looking at the drawings of this.

This to me is a sports top and its depicted like that on the pattern.

If I go down two sizes I suspect it will still be too big for me to do sport in. Its also too big for underwear but the design suggests this would be the better of the two designs I made for sport. Not so.
 
There is minimal support despite being double layers due to the large sizing. This is as you can see a lined top. Looking at my RTW tops they are mostly single layer fabric and despite the modesty supplied with the second layer ( you cannot see the nipples!) I dislike that because its too hot to wear. I hate to think how hot this will be to do real exercise in!
I also do not care if people can see my nipples.


I may have a go at making a basic top from the original pattern without the add on ( its a racer back short top) to see if XXS will fit me. The thing is I am not an XXS. S maybe (sometimes) but never XXS. 
I think I will in future stick with single layers of fabric as well when making this kind of top. Thats not the fault of the pattern though. I knew it was lined when I started. I just never thought that much about the functionality of this.
The RP pattern actually suggests using a third layer which is powermesh. I think really you only need a top layer and a powermesh lining or if the style allows no lining at all.

 I feel I wasted a whole week sewing as well as the fabric I used. The black was particularly precious. I tend to pick up colours for very little money but usually have to pay full price for black lycra fabric and its not cheap!

Just look at the awful fit though!


 
The RP pattern was a complete waste of time, effort and fabric. If I was just starting out sewing this is the kind of project might put a stop to my hobby right now. 

After all theres no point making something you cannot wear in public due to it being so ill fitting.

I actually redid the back of the orange top a few times because it just was not right. It still gapes though.
 
I suppose could have worn these for lounging round the house with track pants, but do not want to be seen in public in either version of these. They were also not really very comfortable to wear. 
 
 I was toying with altering both of these to normal cross over back straps to see if that helps. In the end I ended up chucking both versions I made of this top.
 

Well I suppose you can't win them all!
 
Worst of all the cheapo fabric was made into the Lisette tops and the expensive fabric into the RP tops and they went into the bin! 
I will not be making any more of the RP pattern.

I nearly did not tell the world about these disastrous tops, but it seems fair to let people know the things that do not work as well as my successes to get the balance of how sewing really goes. In all honesty its a rare occassion something is so bad I give up and throw it away. This RP pattern is just not up to standard. The pattern looks great on the pictures. Really interesting with loads of options but the final top just looks amateurish and home made and it does not fit (me). 

If I had just made the one orange top I could put it down to my own sewing but when you get two tops like this in different types of fabric and you have followed the instructions religiously, its the pattern and not my own sewing this time. 
I am very disappointed. 
Never mind. 
Time to lick my wounds and move on to the next project!
 
On the other hand the Lisette pattern still came out too big but it was easy to adjust and I suspect the size problem with both patterns could be down to my measuring and maybe I am just smaller than I realised. Either way the Lisette pattern works even if I chose too large a size. It looks nice too and is comfortable. I will be making more of these.

   
Finally I made some new masks!
And yes I did leave my Christmas lights up. I am working from home full time so decide to add some light and magic to my home when its cold and dark in mid winter ( or not far past anyway!)
 
Stay safe
Bracken

Thursday 21 January 2021

Top from stashed scraps


This is really made from scraps. I am stash busting all those bits you keep that are too good to throw away but not big enough for a whole item of clothing but maybe a pocket? Or somethng else of use? 

They take up so much room. From a large black bin liner of scraps I cut three long sleeved tops and two bras which I will say more about once I get them sewn up. In each case there was not enough fabric to do more than eg the back or the sleeves of the long sleeved tops. I made the bras because there was not enough fabric left to even to make a panel on a princess line top. Proves you should keep your scraps though!

So this top has a front of a lovely and I believe vintage 80s/90s crinkle fabric that was the forerunner of scuba and the stretch crepes you see these says. It was lovely and silky to wear but did not last that long. I picked this up a while ago from an Ebay seller and did not realise what I had bought till it arrived. Since I love this fabric I was very happy and I made two dresses from this before and also a pair of leggings. 

https://brackencrafts.blogspot.com/2018/10/black-leggings-2-pairs-winter-capsule.html

All are very comfortable.

 

The back of this top is scuba crepe but I used the smooth reverse of the fabric for this and the sleeves are made from upcycling a top I bought for 99p. It was always going to be cut up but I have actually been wearing this the last 3 years or so so it really was worth the 99p I paid for it. Its a nice sparkly leopard print but had a weird neckline though this was not unwearable as I found. I just got a bit bored with it though so time to reuse. I cut it as you can see to create puffed sleeves. The lower panel of the top was gathered at the sides. I included this as the lower part of the sleeve and it meas it made a kind of cuff. It all lined up perfect when sewn as well which was an accidental bonus. I do love when things just work!

It was a relatively fast sew using a TNT pattern: Butterick 5562 but without any of the fancy necklines. A quick work worthy top that cost nothing at all!

I made the red leggings as well which you can read about here

https://brackencrafts.blogspot.com/2019/05/red-lisette-mesh-side-panel-leggings.html

Stay safe and keep crafting

Bracken

Thursday 14 January 2021

Green cable jumper and free flat knitted mitts pattern

Another jumper from second hand ( new unused balls!) off Ebay mohair. Bought in 2016 and since then just taking up room. 

 I have been wearing this jumper in various colours since I was about 22. Its just part of how I look now. Its the third or fourth time I have knitted this pattern but I really like to wear it. The first version in golden yellow was back in the 80s ( I do not have any photos) then again in the 90s though that bright green version took me 8 years to knit! I finally finished it in 2004.


Its been very well worn and is pretty bald now and tatty looking but I still wear in the garden but the bright green is really ready for the bin and I cannot quite imagine a world without this pattern of jumper in the wardrobe so here is my latest version.

The yarn is Hayfield Tuscany. The second yarn which is just shadow stripes and is also the main part of the ribbing and this is used as narrow stripes through the larger of the cables is some unknown but very high quality yarn which is very thick and fluffy and hard to knit. The narrow stripes create the shadow striped effect. You can see if you click on the picture what I mean. Its more of a turquoise but was the best I had to combine to get the right amount of yarn to ensure I have enough. As usual I probably could have just used the one colour. The purple stripes in the ribbing are left over lilac yarn from my recent purple aran.  I do like the slightly fancy striped ribbing though. I have not done this until recently. I used it as a way to ensure there was enough in the purple aran and its worked there as well. It is a good way to increase what yarn you have if there is barely enough for what the pattern is asking.

This jumper has a crew neck like the very first yellow version. I have no pictures of that one that I can find and they would be old fashioned prints anyway. The bright green version which is worn out now had a split neck a bit like a grandad neck but I never added buttons. I did make the button holes though! 

I cannot think of a lot more to say about this really. I, as usual, made one cable thats small with a larger cable alternating, rather than all the same size as the pattern directs. I have always done this with this pattern and I like the effect. It also makes it slightly more interesting to do the knitting.

As usual I have taken a photo of the pattern and instructions in case anyone wants to try knitting this. Its from a magazine called Womans Realm. I think its about 1986 because it was the year I adopted my first dog. I remember having just knitted this when I had him in February 1986.

I knitted on the correct needle size this time ( though the pattern is actually for Chunky, but mohair equates fine if you buy the right gauge,) and except for doing double rib with stripes and doing one cable smaller than the other this is " as pattern". Oh and I did not bother with the back neck shaping they tell you to do but just did as I always do with no shaping on the back ( ie; a square ) and put the centre X amount of stitches on a pin to pick up later.  I did for once do a proper neck knitted in the round though now I have my lovely double pins. I have circular needles already but just hate knitting with them. All my previous ( recent) jumpers have been knitted with a seam up one side of the neck. This is the first one I have done as my mother would want me to do it!

Then I made my second pair of mitts. These turned out a bit larger than the previous purple version. I may put a stitch in the finger part to make them more comfortable. They would be ideal over full gloves or mittens though as a double layer and today in the UK I wish I had one or the other because its very cold.

This was the pattern I used for the mitts. I decided because it was thicker yarn to go for a larger needle. That was the problem with my sizing so I think the original purple pair worked better. These are the next size up. Man sized? Still here is the pattern. Again these are made flat and sewn up so very easy to make.

The yarn used for the mitts is the unknown mohair type I used for the jumper ribbing and the darker green stripes are the main part of the jumper. They do tone together though and the mitts work for dog walking and are very warm.

Hopefully you can see there are 5 stripes of the main jumper yarn across the mitts.  Its hard to see but they are there believe me. 

You will have to excuse my messy work area. I will take some new photos of these once its daylight! Without my jumbled background mess.

Two stripes below the thumb, one at exactly thumb level so where you divide for the thumb hole and two above then the turquoise ribbing. Its hard to see in this picture but I have not managed to get a better one yet. Each stripe is two rows wide. One Knit row and one purl row. 

The second picture shows the back of the mitt. The yarn used for these is so fluffy you cannot really see the seam at all. I do not know the name of this yarn or the content but by the amount of very sticky fluff I suspect well above 80% mohair. Its hard to knit on normal sized mohair needles too though the yarn is not thicker when put beside a 5.5 -7mm needle type of yarn. Its just more fluffy. The middle bit where the stripes are is actually looking less fluffy on the pictures of the mitts.

PATTERN - I would say this would fit larger hands or men

Green shadow-striped mohair mitts:

With a 4mm needle cast on 34 stitches using aran cast on and doubled yarn.

Using single strand of  yarn and the 4mm needles do k2, p2 ribbing for X amount. Mine have about 3.5cm of rib for the cuffs.

Change to 5mm needles ( I think this was my mistake, probably should have stuck with the smaller size or altered the number of stitches!) Knit in stocking stitch for 22cm including the ribbed edge. above the thumb measures 7.5cm more including ribbed edge.

 NOTE: If you want to add the stripes you need to knit for 14cm (including the ribbed edge) then do 2 rows of contrast, 2 rows main, 2 rows contrast, 4 rows main, 2 rows contrast- divide for thumb after second row here:

To do thumb hole : K 8, put 8 stitches onto safety pin or stitch holder, cast on 8 stitches and complete the row. 

Then change back to main yarn and continue in stocking stitch: 4 rows main, 2 rows contrast, 2 rows main, 2 rows contrast and change to main for the ribbed edge. 

Ribbed edge: change to 4mm needles and do k2, p2 rib for about 3.5cm. 

Cast off using doubled yarn and a 7mm needle to give the edge some stretch and not be too tight when wearing. If you do not like a loose edge use maybe a 5mm/ 6mm needle to cast off. 

Using 5mm needle, pick up the 8 stitches held on stitch holder or safety pin for the thumb and in stocking stitch knit straight for 2cm then k2, p2 rib for a further 3.5cm and cast off using doubled yarn and 7mm needle. Sew up thumb carefully and then sew up back seams.

NOTE: for my purple gloves, which fit better, I only left 5 stitches for the thumbs and also I did the main part of the gloves in a smaller needle. I could not do that with these since the yarn was too fluffy. I should probably have also in that case have had less stitches rather than the larger needle. The purple gloves had 31 stitches but were a larger cabled rib. These are probably more woman sized though I have relatively large hands being a 5 ft 7 inches ( 170cm) tall woman. Watch this space though because I intend to perfect this pattern. If you do wnat a larger sized mitt this may well work for you - these measure 11cm accross the bit underneath the thumb and similar all the way up.

These are my purple mitts:

 

 

You can see the purple are tighter

See here.

 https://brackencrafts.blogspot.com/2020/12/purple-mohair-mitts-free-knitting.html


 I am considering making traditional mittens next. I will probably move on eventually to full gloves but I need to make it all work first and these are too big but as an over layer over mittens they would be brilliant. Otherwise I need to sew them together between the fingers and thats seems a shame. My partner hates mohair and real wool so will not wear them. He also only wears black!

I will post the next version once I decide what to make next mitts-wise. 

Comments (or advice on knitting and especially designing of knitwear) welcome

Bracken