Sunday 26 July 2020

Corona-virus face masks


On 24th June it became illegal in the UK to go into a shop without wearing a face covering. On top of that at last we have to get ready to go back to work. My partner works in a front line job with the public. His line manager has said he needs to have fabric DIY masks because its "greener" than bought ones. This is despite the fact its impossible to make a Corona-virus safe mask!


My employer has not said I must wear them but probably that is also the case. Though I suspect I can wear bought ones but best we both do the same. Well then, its me going to have to make us some masks.

I have pleanty of off-cuts of cotton left over from various projects. I know Burda Style have a couple of mask patterns so I downloaded both of theirs. There are other patterns everywhere though and most are free.

If you need the Burda Style pattern they are here and these definitely work and are relatively easy to make: https://www.burdastyle.com/pub/media/wysiwyg/burdastyle/blog/2020/04/masque/EN_Anleitung_Maske_1_mail.pdf

The Burda mask comes in various sizes. These are all XL though I think I am going to also make the L because they fit my partner better than me.

So with this challenge in mind I found some interesting fabrics and set to work.


These are all Burda Style Mask 1 which is shaped. 


Wow is this job so excrutiatingly tedious!

Perhaps its because I MUST make these?

Mask 2 looks easier with just being a rectangle with pleats. I intend to make both eventually because I have been told recently that the Mask 2 type are more comfortable. I have yet to try that one but watch this space for more on Burda Style Mask 2.

So these masks are shaped and have 3 layers.

Two layers are of woven cotton.

These two layers make a sandwich for the third layer which is a filter made of washing up cloths.

These washing up cloth filters are removable for washing. I am not so sure they need to be but have yet to try washing with them inside.

The Burda pattern instructions say to remove the wire and the inside filter before washing but doing that to 4 masks every day is going to be a right pain. Still I suppose it may stop us from dying.

Perhaps the filters decay if washed because the washing up cloths do?



UPDATE; IF YOU MAKE THESE DO NOT WASH WITH THE FILTERS INSIDE. It destroys the filter, makes it very hard and you have to replace it so it IS worth the hassle of removing and washing it without. It seems the wire can stay inside though. So far no problem with the wire at all.

The wire I used is green garden wire that you tie up roses and tomatoes with. Mine was from Wilko though I have no idea if they will have it n stock. Queues at our local Wilko have been stupid so I have not been there since before lockdown. I used this kind of wire because I already had it. I works well. Then you need 0.5mm elastic as well. The pattern instructions tell you how much of everything and how to construct.
My messy workspace showing the things needed to make masks



My cloths ( filters) were very hard to find which is weird, but perhaps its because everyone is buying them for masks. Most supermarkets had sold out. I asked a customer services person in Sainsburys and they found me 2 packs which I bought.









There is another type of cloth can also be used. This is softer and like vacuum filter material. I am not sure you can see well here. I bought some of these since then - they are also from Sainsburys and are multi purpose washing up cloths. These are much softer but the mask stays in shape and away from your mouth less well. Its probably personal preferance as to which is best.
I zigzagged the two halves of my filter together to make the insert. Its hard to get this to sew even with a walking foot which I used because it was already attached to the machine and I thought it might help. I had to go very slowly and ease it through the machine but even then its pretty badly sewn due to it being o difficult. This is the foam type of cloth though. The vacuum filter type was easier. Then you cut off the excess. 
In fact to get these into the masks was very difficult and I had to cut them down a lot more than the directions say. The picture shows it cut to the pattern instructions!

Insert for Mask 1
Because Mask 2 takes a smaller rectangular insert you can actually get two of Mask 2 and two of Mask 1 out of two cloths which makes it worth making both types of mask.

Insert for Mask 2 - the rectangle that is drawn on the cloth


These kind of masks are washable and you need to wash after every wearing so I decided to aim to make 10. Thats 5 each for two people for our work days and assumes that the mask worn on a Monday is reuseable for the weekend. To wash you have to dismantle them -  so take out the inner filter and the wire that is used as a top shaping for the bridge of the nose. Even in winter, when its hard to dry things, that should be do-able with 10 masks between 2 of us. Though having done this for a week now I am going to try washing these with the filter in place ad see what happens.

Really, we need at least 10 masks between us and if I can manage it 10 each so we can change during lunchtime because if you end up using a dirty mask its probably not worth bothering is it?

Or at least I suppose legally we would be OK and not get fined by the police for non-compliance, but I prefer to take this seriously and try not to die just yet.












Congrats to those people who have been making hundeds of these for charity. I really cannot make that many. I am finding I must force myself to make what we actually need. By mask number four I was ready to stop. I will make some more in the next few days because we need them but I am obviously not the kind of person who makes things over and over. I never realised that till now I must admit so its interesting to discover stuff like this about myself. Sewing for the sake of it I obviously find boring. I need different things to sew to keep going. Still this job is essential and I must continue.



I suppose thats really the issue isn't it. I need to make these so its like working and doing it is not fun anymore. Really sewing these, at least after figuring out how the first mask goes together, does not engage the brain enough to be at all interesting.



 


 I never really analysed this before but I sew because its like a puzzle to be solved. I do not like crossword puzzles or jigsaw puzzles but I love figuring out how garments and even parasols go together o how to cut them from the amount f farbric I have which often means ignoring the cutting diagrams.

Of course there are some patterns - those TNT ones - I do because for example I just need another top or leggings and I know they fit. These are safe and tried and tested of course so they get redone. They are very easy because I have made these so often I do not need to think really but even then I rarely if ever make more than 2 at a time. I have a break and make something else and I do lots of new patterns all the time and this is because it keeps my brain engaged and its interesting, even when I have to unpick something 10 times, its still good and weirdly fun to do. I am sure all sewists understand this though. Or at least those who sew all the time rather than just a couple of dresses a year.



Even the skull fabric mask does not really make it more interesting to do this although wearing this for work seems to appeal to Mick very much.

I am intending to make more of skull fabric masks for us both. The rest are just made from whatever interesting fabric bits left over from all sorts of different makes. I tend to keep small bits for pockets so these are perfect for these masks. All have a nice contrasting lining - just because why not. I did consider using white fabric because it looks cleaner but why not have a bit of fun. I hate wearing a mask though from working with nano particles I am used to that. I did think having left lab jobs behind I would never have to wear one again.

I will make more masks eventually but I need a break from this. I really need to make another six for two weeks time.

I actually have four masks cut out and ready to sew of Burda Style mask 2 but its not going to happen today. I need some elastic which I have ordered, because I only keep a few metres of 0.5mm wide elastic in stock and have run out. I notice the Ebay elastic prices for this width of elastic have shot up as well!  Supply and demand I suppose. At least it will help keep some small businesses going anyway.


So this is actually only half of my Mask project. I will do another post when I get my elastic because the second type of mask is actually a different design.

I have no idea which works best yet but the design here - Mask 1 - works very well and has already been worn and washed and put back together.

I have been told many people prefer the softer Mask 2 design by someone who has made lots of them so I will see and let you know.












I suspect we may be wearing these for some time yet but hopefully not forever.

Take care and stay safe
Bracken



Friday 24 July 2020

Tie back sun dress

 This is the Tie back dress from Rebecca Page patterns. I don't know what to say about his really other than I just love it. 

Its not at all my usual style, being very girly, so maybe that makes me like it even more. Its very happy and summery and from a distance probably passes as floral.

The fabric is Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) 100% cotton and bought from Ebay. Its lovely with multi directional skulls, with hearts and rainbows and paisley as well. I bought this about 5 years ago and have found it difficult to find things I can make from it that I would actually wear.

I made a pair of trousers earlier this year and they have got worn, probably more than they would usually, because of being in lockdown and not working, but still I have worn them, so when I found this pattern I decided to make this from the same fabric.



I love the back. You can either cross the straps or not as you wish. I decided to cross them because I hate having straps falling off my shoulders and when crossed they just don't.

The bodice is lined with plain white cotton. It took a bit of working out but actually this was a very easy make. The directions though were good so thats stopped the usual problem of spending ages working out how to put this together that I get with Burda. I am intending to make a plain black version though it may have to wait until next spring because summer in the UK is feeling very autumnal and I think its time I started to think of winter now.

I need some new work clothing because I go back next month and would really lke to make some new trousers for that and I must make some tops because I have none that are not worn out now. So unless something very outstanding comes along I am making my winter clothes as of today.



Well its still summer at the moment so best to make the most of it. 
 



































Normally I just do not get to wear summer dresses so I do not even bother to make them. Lockdown has been scary and still is. But it has allowed me to enjoy the spring and summer instead of being stuck in  cold air-conditioned office or lab. 

Possibly its even more scary now we are going back to work but for me its been the best summer of my life to be at home with my partner and my pets and be able to do what I want instead of being bored in a job. Doesn't matter what jobis because for me all jobs are eventually boring and uninspiring which is sad but true. I think this is actually the best year since I went to Uni all those years ago. Then I was happy to get off the dole and into what seemed a meaningful life. But for me life was never so much fun since then. Being unemployed is awful in that you starve and have no money for anything but being free counts for so much. This year I rediscovered what being free really means despite it being illegal to go out places. Just being with the people I love more was gtreat. Doing my hobbies and even the decorating. Even having time to read a book was really nice. Not having to get up and rush out without showing my pets I realy do care for them. Not having to leave my dogs all day with just a couple of pet sitter visits etc. I need to find a way to change my life now because I am not going to be happy working full time ever again. I am very sure of that. People do change their world. Its just finding a way to make it work. So I am now looking at ways to make money. For now though I must plan for what I have to do and get back to making work clothing. I have to live whilst working out how to change my life.
Stay safe
Bracken

Wednesday 22 July 2020

Basic Strappy Cami top - Rebecca Page patterns

 This is really my muslin but it turned out well I think, although for the next version I intend to go down a size but I think fit for this kind of garment is very subjective so probably thats just my preference. It does fit. 

I had to join the fabric at the centre back of the strap since this was made from scraps and I did not have a long enough bit. Thats made it a bit uneven on the back band. 










Other than that though, a very straighforward make. I really like to make basics sometimes instead of the more "exciting" sews I usually make. 

This will be useful for both summer tops and for winter underwear. I am tempted to pair with the basic thong pattern I made  a few weeks back. 

The fabric was left over from these dresses:


You can see more about the orange dress here and pink dress here.

I am really quite happy to find something I can make to get rid of my off-cuts of fabric and this top is ideal for that.  

I recently bought lots of new fabrics - all with interesting prints. Its not really very good though, because it means I have just built up my fabric stash again despite trying to reduce it. Its so hard when you sew to keep the fabric stash small! 

I mean what to do when you see a bargain (or even a high priced!) bit of very interesting fabric, especially when its your birthday and your partner wants to buy it for you?

Though later of course when its still in the way in 3 months time he will moan about it I expect.


Anyway this cami top is a bit more interesting despite being very muh a basic due to the contrasting bands ad of course its going to be very useful.

 I usually lengthen RP patterns, but did not see any edits on where to add length or shorten so despite being 5 foot 7 inches (170cm) tall I went with the pattern as it is. 

After all this is my muslin. 

The final length of my top worked out fine despite my not doing this usual alteration so I will not need to change anything.


Inside is overlocked down side seams and then I overlocked the binding and twin needled it down to finish. A very easy make really. I have been on the look out for a very basic cami pattern like this one for a while. I have several Burda magazine camis but they are all more "interesting" when really I want a very (boring) basic top that will go with just about all my clothing. Thats exactly what this pattern is and I expect to make loads of these.







So all in all a pretty ordinary pattern but despite that a very useful basic cami top. I would definitely recommend this pattern if you are after a cami top.

Also something I have noticed about Rebecca Page patterns which is really good. With every pattern I have made so far the pattern pieces match perfectly. Of course its what we all expect, but there are so very many patterns that the pieces do not match up at all, so you end up having to guess. Even the notches are often out. RP patterns seem to work perfectly.

Have a lovely day and stay safe
Bracken

Friday 17 July 2020

Muslin for basic close fitting top


I decided I want to make the rashguard top from the Make Your Own Activewear book by Melissa Feyr. First you are recommended to make a muslin. Well my swimsuit fabric was expensive so I did just that using my cheap coral fabric. So thats what this top is - a muslin for my rash guard.



In the mirror I thought this fitted well. From these photos I believe I should do an FBA although according to my measurements, and the book, I should not need to do this. The common faults bit though does alude to that stretched bit accross my chest so I think that must be what is wrong with this top.

Also I have been told this about needing an FBA before by Karey when I messed up my peplum jacket a while ago now. I suppose its time I learned to do this just to see if I can get this top to fit better. I have enough of this fabric to redo it in the same fabric too so that would be a really good test. I am not so scared of altering patterns now as I used to be, so perhaps its time now that I learned this.


As it turns out because I thought this fitted - until now that is - so I never changed the block.More on my rashguard top later. It seems not to have the same problem, which must I think be down to fabric choice.

This is cheap crepe fabric that I have used before for the lining of this skirt and this swimsuit which was a tester for Ralph Pink. Since it cost me 99p for about 6m it was a real bargain despite the naff colour. Its also ideal at that price for making muslins.  I used the reverse of the fabric for this top. Thats why it looks flat and not crepe.

Well once I get round to doing this FBA I will show you how my next version compares. It should make for an interesting experiment I think.
Take care
Bracken



Sunday 12 July 2020

Bugs trousers -05/2015 Burdastyle trousers 114/115



These are 05/2015 Burdastyle trousers 114/115 and this is Ikea cotton fabric. I have used the fabric and the pattern before and love both so decided to go for it and see if I can make better use of my offcuts and use the fabric border for this project.

My previous Bugs projects are two dresses:
https://brackencrafts.blogspot.com/2016/05/39-black-bug-dress-2.html

My previous 05/2015 Burdastyle trousers 114/115 are also made from Ikea fabric and from the same oriental fabric range.

I like all of these items so why not try to make another pair of trousers using the Bugs fabric? 
So I did. 
To get the border to work I had to put the pattern pieces slightly off grain. It seems to work OK so far. Being baggy they should not go too out of shape I think.


I did not bother to top stitch the pockets on these trousers, but they work just the same. I did on the previous red version but I do not think it necessary and I made these in a hurry to take away to Cornwall.

I used black ribbing left over from another previous project. Its not a proper cuff though (I previously made T shirts from this fabric) so I had to add a seam.  It works. I also made the cuffs long so if I want to wear socks or boots I can. The red ones tend to leave my ankles bare which is fine on a hot sunny day but not so much if it rains.

 I have another 3m piece of this fabric but these trousers were actually made form the offcuts from my two dresses so I never had to cut into the new bit.
 You can see the extra long ankle cuffs here. I mostly wear them turned up tho which works nicely.


I really like these trousers. I think they are one of my best makes recently.


These are very wearable and very comfortable cotton summer trousers.
I made a few other new things to wear in Cornwall which I will show you over the next few posts. 
Take care and stay safe
Bracken