Showing posts with label free pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label free pattern. Show all posts

Saturday, 20 February 2016

20: Blank Slate patterns High Low top

I have decided I need tops. I have made several dresses and leggings but only 1 top and in my wardrobe I have a serious shortage of nice easy to wear tops. I downloaded this pattern a while ago but only stuck it together a few days ago. I decided to follow my new rules and make it up first in a muslin especially since I followed Mel's advice and did the adjustment to the shoulders recommended for my body type. Assuming it does fit I would wear it.

The directions for all of this is in Mel's tutorial.

This free pattern is from Melly Sews of Blank Slate Patterns:
http://mellysews.com/2013/02/high-low-shirt-tutorial-pattern.html
Its only available in a small which I reckon is around a 36 EU size. The pattern is for wovens but Mel does say you can make it in a knit as well. I had knit fabric.

Anyway, I cut it out and sewed the darts no problem.





But due to not having any overlocking thread in white or cream ( my fabric is cream) and only having black, purple and red. I did not even have 4 white normal threads I could use and I did not think it would be a good pattern for contrast since the fabric is transparent in poarts so the coloured thread would show through on seams and not just hems which probably would look ok. I decided to attempt to sew this on a normal sewing machine.

BIG MISTAKE! 

Now I remember why I bought the overlocker!

And seriously big respect to everyone who regularly sews knits on a normal sewing machine. I am rubbish at it. I started sewing the shoulder up using a small zigzag stitch. First the sewing machine ate my fabric.

I had to take the machine appart to get the fabric out. You can probably see the chewed corner above.
Well I suppose I had to learn how at some point but today was not meant to be the time. The top was salvageable especially since I did not yet know if it would even fit and I started again only to have the machine eat my fabric again. I soldiered on. Inserted the sleeves OK and then did the side seams. I try it on and yes it does fit. I do not like it. I will definitely use the pattern again but may stick with using it for wovens because I work in my real life in an engineering research laboratory and generally I prefer this kind of top because its easy to wear and easy to move in so it will make me some very nice tops I think so thank you to Mel at mellysews.com for this freebie. I am very glad to have made the muslin but won't be wearing this one.






Also from now on I am only using an overlocker on knits. I can now cope with twin needle stitched hems but not zigzagging the seams on knits. I did used to do this but I just could not get a good enough finish. Still on the plus side I have made my muslin as intended and it fits so I am ready to go with lots of tops.

So how do you cope with knits?
 Do you use an overlocker/serger? 
Or do you use a normal sewing machine?

Thanks for reading and see you again soon 
Update on this rather boring fabric. Three years after I wrote this I discovered it tie dyes amazingly well  so then I turned the rest of this fabric into this really lovely and very favourite Tshirt.  
 
You really would not believe it was the same stuff would you?
Just proves no fabric buying is a disaster. You must just find out how to make it work!
Bracken

Tuesday, 22 December 2015

9: Brightly coloured knitted jumper



This is a 1980s free pattern.

I cannot remember which magazine it came from but it was a fashion mag rather than a knitting mag. I knitted it first in 1986 when it first came out. I know what year despite there being no dates anywhere on my pattern because I was working at a kennels which I loved but I got paid very little and I only worked there a short while before getting a better paid job. Anyway I made it twice before. The last time was probably about 1989. Both times I made it in the right guage of yarn. This time however I have made it in the smallest size but in super chunky yarn which uses 10mm and 8mm needles. I bought this lovely yarn in various colours but could only find limited patterns for it and most of them were for scarves and infinity scarves. Well sorry to all the scarf enthusiasts out there, but I find scarf knitting very boring and always have. I have yet to actually finish a scarf. Jumpers or sweaters though I need so I find the incentive to get on with it and finish. Each yarn is a rainbow yarn that changes colour as you knit which gives the already multi coloured fairisle and textured stitches an extra something.

pattern here:


I am unsure how much of the  pattern you will be able to see on screen but I shall write this assuming you can decipher everything and if necessary I will re-type the pattern later. If anyone needs the directions please just email me and I will type this out for you.

Unfortunately I liked this design so much - its very easy but looks complicated - so years ago I laminated it so it is very difficult to photograph and you simply cannot scan it. I especially want this particular jumper too since I have only one hand knitted jumper which goes back to 2004 and all my others are machine knits. To be honest now I have embarked on my somewhat huge journey making garments I only want to wear hand-made. Not necessarily hand-made by me but hand-made all the same. And every other time I made this I loved it above just about every other jumper I had.



My colours: All yarns from Aldi and Wilko in the UK so very cheap yarn. All super chunky with suggested needle sizes of 9-10mm. However, it is also reasonable quality and washes ok going by previous experiments with it when I knitted some gloves a few years ago which wear washed and tumble dried quite a lot and are still going although definitely a bit worn now. I also knitted some baby clothes fro my friend's new born and they were washed loads and stood up to it so I think Aldi yarn is ok for the price and for this jumper.

Changes to the original pattern include doing just the textured slipped rib stitch for the sleeves and not the cable as shown. In fact I have never done it with the sleeve cable since it seems a bit strange to me in this pattern but could be nice if perhaps done with contasting cables so one half is one colour and the other half another making a twisted rope kind of look. If you know what I mean. Not sure that is very well explained so sorry about that if it does not make sense. The rib pattern is in blocks of 10 stitches so its pretty easy to work it to miss out the cable and just have a ribbed stitch.



The pattern uses 5 colours but I never have but I also miss out the cable on the sleeve.



You knit the centre front and back panels using the following chart and 4 different colours although I have always used up odd balls and adapted so I do not necessarily do the ribbing in the recomended colour if I am running out of yarn.

 I just adapt because this pattern is very flexible and will still look brilliant once finished.The rows up the side are numbered in ODD numbers 1-11 which is the number of repeats. You knit row 1 and purl row 2.  Then knit all odd rows, purl all even rows.




I did the main body panels which are the fairisle bit in the recommended (for the yarn) using 10mm needles and they worked well. Not too loose or too tight so the best needles for this bit, but when I came to do the side panels the knitting was just too lose using  the 10mm so I sent for some 9mm and 8mm needles. In the end I used the 8mm needles although maybe with hindsight no 7mm needles might have been even better but I wanted to get on with this else I might have tested a swatch of the smaller size. If you do this pattern it may be best to experiment a bit.
 
I used normal chunky yarn for one of the contrasts. I just used it doubled to give me the bulk. The recommended needles for this were 5.5mm so when doubled it is OK with 8mm for side panels and works well with 10mm for the fairisle.









You knit the side panels seperately and then sew it together.
The sides and sleeves are in a  textured rib stitch which is basically an alternating slipped stich so pretty easy.
The original side panel I knitted in 10mm needles which came out too loose, I kept incase I needed the extra yarn. More of this later.






Finally you do the ribbing and the bottom and the neck edge.  The pattern uses a cross over neck style which was really popular in the 1980s but personally I never liked this.Neckline: on both my previous versions I did an open neck with a collar. This time I am doing a normal crew neck.To do this instead of following the pattern I shaped as a similar crew neck pattern and cast off alternate rows until I got the correct number of stitches. Since the jumper was huge anyway I did not worry too much about how many stitches I ended up with. It would fit me anyway.



Sewing up the front and back panels: I found it easiest to use the many wool ends where I had cut off the different colours at the side to do the sewing.



To be honest I think sewing the thing up was the worst bit of this garment - all the seams to sew up. By using the short bits you also weave the in at the same time giving a neater finish.



Sewn up panels:





Neck: using 7mm needes I pick up all the way round and knit in a circle using double ribbing then I do one row of just purl so it will fold over nicely and then continue in the double rib until the neck lining is the same size as the outside of the ribbing. It makes like a self facing.

Then I just slip stitch it down. I did toy with the idea of picking up the inside neck stitches and casting off two stitches at once to avoid having to slip stitch ( no idea what this technique is called or if it even has a name) anyway the jumper was simply too heavy and I gave up doing this and just cast off using a size 10mm needle for the cast off row to allow for some stretch.




This is the reverse after I had joined in the ends and sewn up:



Hems of the jumper: for colour A I originally used two strands of a yarn meant for 5mm needles. The pattern says to do just one contrasting row on the cast on edge rather than a row in but I decided to do this instead and I am happy with it. Double rib is used for the hem and sleeves with a cast on in the main ribbing cvolour then two rows of a contrast and then back to the main colour again.



I decided I want the hem thicker since both times I have previously made this pattern the hem wore out first so this time I used three strands of the same yarn. This did mean I had to be careful when knitting not to drop one strand of yarn so it does not make it quick to do the hem. Also on both my previous versions (both made in the 1980s) I used a circular needle and knitted in the round for the hems. This time the jumper is just too heavy. So anyway I actually joined the bottom of the front and back only to change my mind and just knit half of the bottom ribbing. I still had the weight to contend with and the 3 strands of yarn, but not the huge number of stitches. So: I knitted both front and back ribbing seperately which does mean sewing them together but that is just like a conventional jumper so not the end of the world.

Both previous versions were in warm but light weight mohair and chunky yarns. This is super chunky and it has knitted up very heavy. Should be a very warm garment though. I have worn it once so far and was very hot in it. Havings aid that the UK has yet to have a proper winter and when/if it arrives this year I am now ready for it.


Because all the wools change colour there is a variation in every panel which to start with was quite annoying but once you get into it I really like the effect which is good because I do not really have time to start this project again.


This jumper is really all a bit experimental - or hit and miss depending on how you think - but its come together very nicely. It is huge and cuddly and warm which is what I wanted. It has a bit of glitter which I also wanted. It is multicoloured due to the design and also the fact I am using magic colour-changing rainbow yarn for all my contrasts except for on the side panels where one contrast is a tweed. Still its a very multi-coloured looking garment and will be warm for winter and just what I want for Christmas. At work we have a christmas jumper day but I do not really like any of the  commercial "picture" jumpers and if I was to wear one I would want to make it. I do not currently have time and this project has been going on for too long already so the sooner it is finished the better because it is taking precious making time from my sewing projects. Anyway, most of all I just needed a big thick winter jumper before it gets any colder.
And finally just to finish off: the side panel I made that was too loosely knitted will make a lovely cowl/ infinity scarf. I just have to weave in the ends and I think I will join everything together with a couple of buttons. So after all I will make scarf too. It will make a lovely addition to my jumper and in the end it would be a right pain to have to unpick all the rows of different coloured yarns to rescue them for another garment and I hate wasting things. More on this once I have finished it.



Thanks for reading and hope to see you again soon,
Bracken











Tuesday, 1 December 2015

7: Dark navy top with a step by step tutorial guide to making

Having made my warm black top I was going through and re-organising my fabric stash mainly due to complaints from my other half about the amount of space I am taking up storing it all.


Anyway I have 6 metres of this really nice navy knitted fabric. Probably fibre is acrylic. Its got a self-stripe which is quite wide. I bought this because it was a bargain at £3.68 with no particular idea what I would do with it. Then yesterday I had an idea because I am loving playing with my overlocker. I made two tops with the stripes sideways on this one and a second one with longwise stripes. I only took photos of the one though since they are identical really.

There is no pattern for these. I just cut rectangles and then angled the sleeves but this Burda pattern is very similar if you wanted to make one of these. You could also make an easy dress by this method by just making the rectangles longer.

http://www.burdastyle.de/burda-style/schnittmuster-unter-1-eur/longshirt-u-boot-ausschnitt_pid_1519_7181.html

I decided I wanted exposed overlocked seams on the outside edges though. Its that "old punk" bit of me I suppose! It would also work with the edges inside. In the end I have worn it both ways. There is a certain advantage to having something you can wear the right side when its inside out or right side out because there is never a wrong side.

  1. First of all to make this you need to measure yourself.
  2. Then some maths: for example for a 36 inch (91.5cm) bust: half of 36 = 18 (46cm) and add a bit on for comfort so say 2 inches (5cm) = 20 inches (51cm)+ seam allowance giving in my case 21 inches (53cm) wide ( if you want it baggy maybe up to 6 inches (15cm) so would = 42 inches (107.5) + seam allowance, but remember then you will need shorter sleeves)
  3. I cut out the pieces: front and back (identical rectangles are 20 inches (51cm) wide each and as long as you want. Mine were 29 inches long (71cm).)
  4. and two sleeves - also rectangles 20 inches (51cm) wide but angle in slightly at the wrist to make the sleeve narrow. Mine are 28 inches (71cm) long so that I can have either very long sleeves for keeping my hands warm or I can fold them back.
  5. then overlock/serged the shoulder seams. 
  6. Then I overlocked around the neck and checked it will go over my head. It was a bit tight so I simply made it bigger by over locking again and cutting off the first lot of overlocking. 
  7. Then I added the sleeves by pinning the centre of the sleeve to the centre shoulder seam and overlocking all the way accross. If you want exposed seams you need to check you have both seams on what will be your right side. 
  8. Once the sleeves were attached I serged the side seams and sleeve seams together. I am very happy that all the fabric stripes actually matched up perfectly despite my hap-hazard method of making. 
  9. Finally I serged all the hem edges and thats it. Finished.

It took probably about 30 minutes to cut and make each top. Since the fabric is thin I think they look great over patterned T-shirts or tops and I can layer them under thicker tops like my Warm black top I made a few days ago. I may make a few more of these types of too since I really enjoyed wearing one of them today.

Thanks for reading
Bracken