Coat finishing

Well its taken absolutely ages for me to finish this but finally here is my coat. Its the Burda Style cape coat I began making here.

Its actually over a year since I started to make this. I got severely held up by the need to hand sew the button hole as well as the hem. But its done. Thanks really to my machine needing a service which is also now done so I should have some new things to show in the next few weeks. I say things because I have a few ideas and not everything is wearable but we will see how it goes once I get back to proper ( as in sewing machine) sewing rather than hand finishing such as this. It has kind of inspired me though to finish my other half made coats because really this did not actually take me long to finish off. I just do not enjoy hand sewing!

Its a shame though to not finish some of my half made coats. One is actually in red velvet. I really should get round to that one.

So this coat is the cape coat from Burda Style magazine 128,12/2002. So its been on ly list for years. I also had it on this years to make list as well so at least I get to tick something off that. 

And it turns out its nice to wear. Warm, stylish and swirly too...............

This is it done up- it has just the one button to fasten

The original pattern does not have a hood but living in the Uk I really do need one so I added that as an extra. You can find out all about my alterations and plans for this in the original post. I won't waste time here repeating all that. 

OK so the finishing:

 

In the end I changed the button from the last post where I had added the bakerlite round button. I just found the large bakerlite one too big. 

This rectangualr button is also vintage and from my Great Aunts' stash just like the larger round one. This one is a browny black though looks more brown here and goes very well with the brown flecks in the black fabric. I reckon its also the only time I might consider using it so best to do so when it actually works on something. Its a nice strong thick button so will work well on my coat and hold the weight of the two heavy fabrics I made it from quite well and having a hand embroidered button hole using embroidery thread also makes this a good choice.

I actually pulled out quite a few buttons. The original large round one is shown here too. 

My sewing machine being out of action has meant I had time when normally I don't for fiddly things like sewing on buttons and hand sewing hems, and I finally got round to doing some hand sewing on my coat. I have been trying to get round to this for well over a year now. I made the button hole by hand the old fashioned way that I was taught at school ( all those years ago - I finished on May 22nd 1980!)

And I am reasonably happy with how my button hole turned out. And the coat overall. Just wish I had actually finished it earlier really. But still everything in its own good time. 

My partner helped with some of the pinning and fitting - ignore the messy room please. I think he did a good job because once actually sewn up the hem is perfect and I probably could not have achieved such a good result without help.

The dress here is the dragon scale sweatshirt using the pixie dress pattern and theres info on that here.

Have a lovely week and thanks for popping by to visit me,

Bracken

Musings and another green top

I was hoping by now to show you my finished corduroy jeans. All they need is a button and button hole. I sorted out a button but then it all went caput. Well I have had a set back. To be honest it's not a new problem. When I try to sew my buttonholes my Janome just knots up. I previously just swapped to my very old Brother and did manual buttonholes but they are not as neat and in this case I think the fabric is too thick for my Brother to manage as well so it's really time I got round to fixing my machine.

The next issue is the reason this problem exists is I am unable to get a screwdriver into the gap to take off the foot plate. So I have always backed out because the machine sews straight stitch and zig zag fine. But it's getting worse and it's such a cop out because it's probably just a build up of lint/felt and in need of oiling. I also noticed the bobbin is sticking now and the whole bobbin race and unit rocks in situ so I really need to stop the sewing and do some basic maintenance. So that's what I intend to do. It might mean not actually sewing for a week or so but this poor machine has been worked hard for years and I need to just fix it. I contacted my mate who says he can lend me a socket with a screw driver so I can access the screws so that's what I am waiting on. 

In the meantime I did manage to use the fabric craps from my polo neck top to make this green puffed sleeved raglan. Its mostly overlocked with just the hem twin needle stitched and yes my Brother needs fixing because it did not like doing this hem either. 

I do like this pattern so its one I have made before a few times meaning its safe but not treally a challenge - or only in that my machine is not sewing well anyway. Its a very pretty basic raglan with just a small puffed sleeve to give it a bit of something and make it a pretty top. It also needs less than 1m of fabric so is an ideal make from offcuts. And its easy to wear. I am currently even considering this pattern as a PJ top pattern but I have not decided as yet. But it is comfy and pretty. 

Anyway more on that if it actually ever happens.

In the meantime I think maybe I shall stick a few patterns together and do some bulk cutting out. I haven't cut a big pile for about a year but I do like to have loads if garments I can just get on with sewing so that's my plans for this week. Its good to have lots cut out because it means you can just pick something up and sew when you have time and it doesn't really get in the way of any bigger projects but means you can do something fast when there is little available time.

Really sometimes I wonder if I will ever in my entire life have time to sew even a quarter of what I have on my list. And it seems to grow weekly!

I am currently exploring the concept of wide circle skirt pixie coats. I had though of crocheting one but there is the fact I am rubbish at crochet. And it seems the best patterns are for tunisian crochet which i know a bit about but have never attempted. This will impede me !

I have no idea how long such a project will take me but there is the option to sew something similar based on the amazing Catwise coats that I have had in my Pinterest for at least 10 years. I think if I used either French terry or even regular boring sweatshirting this could turn out to be a lovely summer coat. Well if you can't sew then you may as well plan for the future projects.

So that's where I am at right now. 

The trousers were made a while back and I do not wear them often I have to admit, because they are not at all work worthy and are just for fun and only really worth wearing when I am feeling confident because they do get attention. Thats fine when you want it but if I have one of those days where you want to just become invisible to everyone its not a good look. Today must be an outgoing day because I have enjoyed them. But then I am not at work today.

I also have a knitted baby Clanger to construct. I have knitted all the bits now and need to sew her together. That's looking quite complicated as well. I read through the construction last night and it's not easy but hopefully now I have spent over a month knitting it I can figure this one out. 

Have a lovely weekend,

Bracken

Green polo top

In recent months I am suddenly aware ( and upset by) the changes to my neck. Its becoming very "turkey neck" and there seems nothing to be done about it so I decided to make a new version of a Burda top I made several years ago. When I looked back at this I had similar concerns about my neck then and  it would seem though I must have just forgotten them and moved on afterwards.  I actually really like this top anyway and always meant to make another but I think now my neck is aging I might make several. Its polo necks or scarves I think!

Of course aging is unavoidable and even if I was to suddenly become very rich I would not go down the surgery route. I might go for a few collagen ( or whatever is currently used because this is an area in which I know very little) injections if I could afford them but they would be for the face not the neck so I would still have the same neck issues. Its not really that bad as yet but of course aging is just constant downhill as far as looks are concerned. You just have to accept it but I reckon a polo neck or two would currently do wonders for my own confidence so I decided to try this and see how it goes. 

For some reason I have a problem with the font today and I have not discovered how to fix it, so I apologise for that and hopefully I should work it out by my next post. As you can see the rest of this post is in a different or smaller font. According to my HTML (font-family: arial; font-size: medium) for both different fonts, but there is definitely something wrong here. Still as I say I have not worked out how to change this.

Back to my top: 

I have only worn this the once so far since I literally just made it. Its currently waiting to be washed. 

The pattern is from Burda style magazine 114, 12/2014. Last time I made the neck a bit too big for a polo. I have still very much enjoyed this top though but its now quite pilly and has a few pulls on the very delicate fabric. 

The khaki green fabric I used for the new top is actually very similar ( in feel) to the first version of this pattern, so I think it will be similar when made up and really I want to repeat the first top but correct the not so good bits. For example I have always found the cuffs a bit short for my arms so I made them double the length plus an additional 10cm longer just to make sure. It means they fold right over but that also means I have more substantial ( thicker) cuffs and they are adjustable as I need. Hopefully that will stop my sleeves from going up my arms inside jackets and sweatshirts. 

I made a dress last summer from this khaki green fabric and this top will be good to wear this Spring I think under/ over that dress. On top of that it should also go well with my new, not quite finished jeans. I still need a button and buttonhole for them so will give you an update once I have braved that bit. For me button holes are almost as bad as welt pockets. I am rubbish at both!

Anyway,  I am aiming for some khaki green co-ordinates for Spring. I have a second top planned from the left-overs after making this top, which will give me a pretty easy mix of garments for those "I haven't got time to plan or think, I just need to be dressed and get out to work" days. 

I cut the neck out as accurately as possible to ensure its a proper polo neck and it worked. Not sure but maybe this fabric is more stretchy. For some reason my previous version of this pattern has a very loose neck which almost makes for a cowl rather than a proper polo. This is how its meant to be.

And of course you could actually make the polo shorter simply by folding it over. I want it high to hide my neck. And its much warmer than a normal T-shirt neck which I need right now. 

I really like the puffed sleeves on this. And the princess seams which is something I tend not to go for. I never really knew why I made the first version of this because its really not at all my usual look. Still I have very much liked something a bit different in my wardrobe so it proves I ought to try and be a bit more adventurous. I have literally hundreds of patterns yet tend to make the same few again and again. I need to still do that of course because its all stuff I want to wear, but include the occasional "different"  pattern so I explore other sides of myself ( and fashion!). 

In case you wondered this top is a very easy make. Its was a bit slippy due to the silky fabric ( I think its a viscose mix from what I remember)  I chose but even then its an easy one and well worth the effort. The hardest bit is over the CF panel because its a double layer of fabric on that panel only, where I found it wanted to pucker but I just sewed very slowly and adjusted the foot occasionally and it worked out ok.

Thanks for popping by. I hope by next week I will have braved the buttonhole on my new jeans so I can show you them and also so I can wear them because its the right weather now and they will I think look great with this new top.

Have a great week,

Bracken

Making jeans!

I bought this Butterick jeans pattern to ma ke up an order so I got free postage. That was probably 8-10 years ago. I thought,  well a jeans pattern can't really be a mistake but in all honesty I had zero desire to sew jeans.

There are certain fabrics in my stash I particularly want to use this year one of which is a rather nice khaki stretch needlecord. I have 2m of this. I started off thinking of 70s burda's because I have loads and I  want fancy some flares. I made a few pairs of stretch flares the last couple of years but always by bodging the same free pattern which is really for yoga pants. My flares have all worked and been wearable but I reckon I could do better so I spent days looking through my vintage 70's magazines only to realise that 1970s women were it would seem bigger than me and I also never knew their trousers have no pockets!

So then, back to modern patterns. It was not all a waste of time though because I have added a few to-makes to my ever increasing list! But flared jeans type trousers, No!

1990s and 2000s styles were better because they usually do have pockets.

Well, I don't mind making clothes with no pockets, but I do like pockets in my jeans and I cannot conceive of flared trousers / jeans in corduroy with no pockets of any kind. Then I remembered this pattern so I found it out from it's storage, (most of my sewing stuff is in storage due to a very small house and we had intended to move to a different country. For now the move us on hold for family reasons, but the stuff remains stored in the hopes we eventually get it sorted.)

So I sorted out the right pattern pieces and worked out the best way to get them out of this piece of fabric and to see if this is going to work. My fabric measures 140cm wide. The pattern is for 160cm or 115cm. I only have 2m but hopefully this will fit and I can make some flared trousers- with pockets. 

Well I got the bits cut out a few weeks ago and started to make them. Well nearly 4 weeks to be exact but this jeans making is something you need to spend a little time over. Its not difficult but it is time consuming.

On first look the pattern directions were really good but as I started to sew I found loads of problems. The basic directions are OK. But in some instances they say to finish the edges here and then do X. But not in all instances and I decided ( wrongly) to trust the directions not my own self. 

So now I have a raw edge on the inside crotch seam and would have other problems if I had not decided after doing that to add-lib. Annoying I actually thought about overlocking that seam too before top stitching but the previous directions had been correct so I trusted the pattern. There is also a problem with the inside fly cover. I will not enclose the seams next time. Directions say to do so but it makes the fly too small. It still works but next time I make these I will need to remember so hopefully blogger will still be going then so I am able to look up what else I change.

I have not yet finished these because its a big job but to be honest its actually straight forward to make these and relatively easy.  You just need to have the confidence and to believe in your own understanding of stitching and as I have discovered don't expect a pattern to tell you everything however good it seems. After all I am used to thinking for myself with the likes of Burda so why would any other pattern company be different? 

A lesson learned!

Then I went by the pattern markings for the back pocket positions and decided, luckily to pin and try these on before doing the flat felled side seams. The pockets were well out from where they should be for my clothes size! 

I took the pockets off and repositioned but the move has slightly marked my fabric. I am hoping it will wear in and be less notice-able. 

The inside pockets have a contrast lining as does the inside of the waistband though I actually did have enough fabric to make them in the same cord fabric. 

I am not very happy with the zip but next time it should be better.

So after moving the pockets I took the plunge and did the side seams as flat fells and then did the inside seams and except for a waistband I have a pair of jeans. 

Perhaps if all goes to plan next week I can actually say I made a pair of jeans and show you my photos. Fingers crossed...........

Have a lovely weekend,

Bracken

Completed at last: Mushroom Season top down jumper

I started this child's jumper, size aged 3 to 4 years, I think in May or June last year. The pattern is called Mushroom Season hence my title. 

It's a free Drops yarn pattern and I used the recommended 100%wool Karisma yarn though my red is a brighter shade than the pattern due to them having sold out of the correct red. It works. Since small person it's intended for is currently in a 2 to 3 years I do not actually know if this is the right size though my tension is correct and it measures as the pattern says it should.

It actually doesn't really matter because small person will grow into it either way so it will fit at some point. In the end it comes down to dimensions. Hopefully the sleeve length and body length work together. I do not yet know!

This was a real challenge for me because its my first top down jumper ever. I really like there us absolutely no sewing up just the yarn ends to darn in. Even the fold over neck is knitted into place. Amazing!

The back is slightly raised up which I like but my short rows are not good if you look closely.

front is OK because it doesn't have any short rows.

I have just started to knit a Clanger toy and it has a wrap and turn technique which seems to give good results with short rows but I didn't know about out it when I began this.

I stuck exactly to the pattern except for the wrist and hem ribbing which I added stripes to. Not quote Norwegian exactly but often these sweaters do have some fairisle at the hem and being relatively inexperienced with knitting in the round and Norwegian style knits I didn't feel confident enough to add a fairisle hem so stripes will have to do. They should also mean mud loving child might actually get to wear this a couple of times without constant washing and since it's wool that will be best I think.

There are less stripes on wrists than the hem but I decided that didn't matter.

I haven't yet blocked this. I literally finished it this morning.

I realise while knitting this that it would work ( in child's sizing) in adult form in mohair because the stitch count is right. This is a double knit yarn. Mohair is closer to chunky. Or the mohair I have stashed is. It will take some working out if I do that though. Not too sure as yet but the adult version of this which is available free and identical to the child patter, would probably be quite heavy in this yarn and I think I might struggle to knit that. It was quite heavy just for that second sleeve. I do like the design though so am considering attempting a mohair version for me. Top down is new for me but I really like it. My next couple of jumpers are already planned though and waiting so tip down is going to have to wait for a bit while I knit conventionally for them.

Thanks for visiting. Do you like my version of this jumper and have you ever tried top down knitting?

Take care and hopefully see you soon,

Bracken