This is my new winter coat made from lilac upholstery grade velvet.
Its a dull grey winter day today in Coventry, UK so sorry about photo quality etc.
This was really a HUGE project for me but I am very happy with the
final outcome.I actually started this coat last winter, in February I
think, and never finished it because it kind of evolved. The pattern is Arkivestry for Simplicity 1732.
The fur collar and cuffs are
made from a long faux fur infinity scarf I found for 99p in a charity
shop and this is how the whole project began. I have had the pattern for
ages but never had the right fabric.
To make
the lilac
velvet fabric work I had to cut the side panels the opposite way to the centre
panels in order to eke it out. I suppose so long as I do not tell then
most folk will think the different direction of the nap are intentional
details.
Its taken quite a while because I started this in
February 2017 and actually spent about 3 weeks virtually constantly
stitching ( as in whenever I was not at work I was stitching this up).
Then gave up in May and ignored this all summer then
the last 3 weeks just to work out how to finish it. Then actually doing the finishing has taken quite a while but now its done.
I had sewed everything up pretty fast really and started to hand sew
up the lining hem to the velvet outer. Well as you know I hate hand
sewing and when March came in 2017 it was quite warm and I no longer
needed this coat. So I found other projects and it sat there waiting
which as it turns out was for the best.
The actual construction is pretty easy. I even added braid to decorate the sleeves where the fur and velvet meets to continue the Arrivestry Steam Punk theme. I
decided to use my black braid around the sleeves, which I bought for just such a project
while not yet knowing what I was going to do with it. I like the effect
very much. Its hard to see on the photos but I will take more and add them later to try to show this bit.
Then I made my only mistake with
this. I have this lilac faux silk / satin. Possibly it is charmeuse but
I am not certain. I bought 6m of it ages ago and was a real bargain, but it will be difficult
to wear in every day life though I do see a nice work shirt coming out
of it at some future occasion once I find the
right pattern. Its more the sort of fabric people make bridesmaids
dresses from then line coats with but it’s the perfect colour and I want
this to be a very special coat so have taken a lot of time over this
garment.
But what I should have done here was
use the satin side in the sleeves and the silk side for the body
because I love the luxurious look the silk gives as a lining but the
sleeves do not really have enough “slip” so the satin side would have
worked better. I even considered taking them out and
redoing them but I had already spliced them all around to help them lay
flat and was not sure I could achieve this and in the end its not the
end of the world and not unliveable so I decided to just live with this
and learn for my next coat.
The fact is it still works. It just could have
been better. But then sewing is a learning process and from now on I
will be considering this sleeve lining issue at my planning stage. I had
to hand stitch the hem and the sleeve linings
to the velvet outer and here is where I gave up. By then it was May and it was very
hot so I was not going to wear this coat for months so I just put it
aside till now. I also hate hand stitching anything!
But
then November arrived and I started to think of caots again. It was not too cold yet but I knew it would be
soon, so time to get round to finishing this. Despite my
extreme hatred of hand stitching I could really do with a nice new
(warm) coat and this is going to be useable for
normal life ( work) as well as for my weekends so I really have to get
my act together and get on with the job.
When I eventually went back to making this coat I decide not to make
buton holes as I had originally intended. I would probably have put
buttons on this coat had I not left it sitting waiting for so long, but I
was bored and did some searching for frog fastenings back in the spring
thinking perhaps I could incorporate them into some as yet unknown steam
punk outfit. Then I came across the
Jane Austen site.
This inspired me but I still did nothing about making any
frogs. Summer came and went. My coat went in and out of my stash pile but
it was hot and dry and I did not need a warm winter coat.
Christmas came
and I finally got round to actually experimenting with making frogs.
So instead of buttons I decided to have a go at making
frog fastenings because they will compliment the black braid trim around my sleeves. I spent weeks
looking at the Jane Austen site as well as numerous historical sites
where there are images of frogs. Then further weeks watching You Tube
videos on making frogs. There
are lots of videos it turns out but back in June I had bought
dressing gown type of cord for no particular purpose but just because it seemed a good idea to own some. The videos all seem to use parachute cord.
Well I have what I have.
Is it going to be too thick?
Who knows till you try it out!
I should have taken lots of photos here but forgot in my concentration with making these but if you did fancy making frogs there is loads of info on the web.
So
first I made two knots for the buttons and then made them into frogs
and then two more frogs with no button, Then started to pin them on my
coat. I decided only needed to make 4 of these. That is 2 each of the button ones and two of the loop ones. Thats really because these are very big frogs due to my cord being dressing gown weight not thin stuff usually used but I reckon they work fine and I bet in the " olden days" when these were the norm they used all sorts. I read you can make them from thin tubes of fabric but my velvet would be too thick I think so better with this cord ( and easier!).
Have to say I usually rush to finish most
projects because I want to post about them and do regular posts on this
blog but maybe I need to now take longer than a week over most projects
because the end result of this coat is lovely.
At this point its a great thing I did not get
round to sewing in my lining because I needed to undo the small bit I did sew of the hem lining, to sew
these on and get a decent finish.
So this is my final coat:
So to make this this is the order in which I worked to make this coat:
I started as the pattern tells you by sewing up the outer and the lining. Then, first the sleeve linings attached to the sleeves and by hand stitching – which I absolutely hate. Then I started to do the hem but my haterd of hand sewing stoped futher progress. I had to undio the hem I had actually got round to sewing in order to add the frog fastenings.
First though I needed to actually make the Frog fastenings - making took a day but thinking about this probably 3 months!
Then Frog fastenings to attach to the front of coat- this was very tedius and took me two days of hand sewing them on.
Then finally finish the hem which took a further two days.
And this is my best coat yet!
Its also quite nice to make something bigger
because generally my projects are easy, and fast, and done very quickly
but this has taken me ages and loads of thinking about how to do it.
Its
been a real challenge in fact but I think the
result is worth all that work.
Best of all is the frogs do actually seem to really work to keep the coat closed. Of course I have yet to wear this on a windy day but so far so good and I am very impressed with them. I expected to need to add hidden secret press studs but there is no other fastening other than my very amateurish frogs. I will be making more of these on future garments now because I love the way they look even with them being very imperfect.
Ah and incase you wanted to know I am also wearing
my sailor trousers ( I had to take them up a bit after the original post!)
purple top
and
anarchy gloves with this coat!
So what do you reckon to my new coat?
Thanks for visiting my blog,
Bracken