Showing posts with label Pattern Lab. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pattern Lab. Show all posts

Monday, 24 February 2020

Pattern testing version 3 of the Pattern Lab Swimsuit


At the same time as cutting out my striped swimsuit
I cut a coral swimsuit, as well, from some fabric I have never before found a use for because to be perfectly honest its just not my colour.










Well I did make a top from this right at the start of my blogging adventure (or at least the sleeves were made from this fabric) and although it was a success - due to me actually making a garment, I never liked it and it felt very old ladyish.

I sent it to the charity shop years ago once I started to make clothing I liked. Mind you despite these tops being pretty rubbish, at that time I wore them with pride. I do actually still own one of these tops, from that period of my life, but most had to go. I love the khaki and white top with the orange edging round the neck. I still wear that one and really should make a new version.


Anyway, I think as swimsuit fabric this could be very good and also the fact its crepe could just keep me warm in the sea in Cornwall.

So this is version 3.
 
 I think from my original feelback the leg height is correct on this one. It does not pull down and its actually not see through in water because I tried it in the shower!

However, despite this I sort of feel its kind of leotardy rather than swimsuity.



I twin needle stitched this version so I could contrast it with the zigzag of the previous two. I am not sure which is better to be honest and will probably contiue to alternate as and when/if I make more swimwear. Its different edgewise but not really better.

I now finally also have some "proper" swimwear fabric so am going to have to make a final version just because of that. For that one though it will have a front lining.

Finally I promised Ralph to say that if you would like to help perfect this block and wish to test the blocks then please email Ralph at testing@patternlab.london  to get involved in this project.

Bracken



Monday, 17 February 2020

Pattern testing - the body glove version 1


This is the bodyglove I have made to pattern test for Ralph Pink and Pattern Lab.

Its very tight which I suppose is the point. Its a polyester crepe which I do not at all like hence works for a pattern test. Its the left over fabric from the lining from my recent summer coat which hopefully it will be wram enough to wear soon.

I have to say I am quite impressed by this and waiting to find out if Ralph made any adjustments to my huge shoulder measurements because its unusual for anything to fit my shoulders without me making adjustments. Well this fits.

Shame I have got fat since Christmas which was when I gave Ralph my measurements. Hopefully this will not be quite so tight once I get back to normal. I reckon on a beach yes I could wear this when body boarding and I have to say the possibilities for super hero costumes just appeal to my sense of fun!




Not much else I can say about this really. Its constructed via overlocking and twin needle stitching of the hems. Polyester crepe/scuba knit so not very stretchy next to swimwear fabric. Its very, very tight. You can see my scar from my hip replacement even through the fabric. I am getting used to my scar now though and it bothers me far less than a few weeks ago. Maybe a result of pattern testing swimwear. I think thats a good thing though - to be comfortable with your scars.

This invisible back zip was a mistake because its very difficult to do up/undo but with a better or rather more practical zip and a ribbon pull would be great on the beach. I only had a white zip or a dark yellow so went with the white. I never considered the problem though with it being so difficult to find so need help to do it up. Its a great wetsuit pattern or rash guard pattern or even superhero pattern for comicon. I just cannot help thinking that all I need is a belt and cape😀

If you would like to help perfect this block and wish to test the blocks then please email Ralph at testing@patternlab.london  to get involved in this project.

See you soon,
Bracken

Wednesday, 29 January 2020

Pattern testing version 2 of the Pattern Lab Swimsuit

Here is version 2 made from what I believe is proper swimsuit fabric and the front is not so low and possibly legs higher than version one so more like they are meant to be.

From Ralphs feedback from the velvet swimsuit- that the fabric is not stretchy enough vertically, so I decided to try to find some more swimwear type of fabric.

The mermaid swimsuit fabric I bought from amazon was absolute rubbish so I am sending back. I did fancy mermaid scales but its obviously not to be. Also it was £11.99 per meter so pretty expensive. I have bought two different pieces ( yet to arrive) from an Ebay seller so wil see what they turn out like.The seller assures me its proper swimwear type of fabric. There are absolutely no fabric sellers near to me so the internet is my only choice. The stuff I bought from Amazon is total rubbish and has virtually no stretch so I would avoid if I was you.


Version1 - velvet swimsuit
Anyway you can see my original velvet swimsuit right but its just not very good so I needed to make a second version and try to get that one right.  I rummaged through my lesser known bits of fabric stash so everything that is stuck at the back of my shelves where my fabric stash lives, knowing I had still got some of the striped lycra fabric I used for my skirt and trousers and this is probably the only real swimwear fabric I have bought ever. I am not certain its actually meant for swimwear but its stretchy enough and the right weight etc so more than likely its either swimwear fabric or dance wear fabric. It does sew into very nice flowy dancwear clothing though and made a nice summer skirt for my holiday.


So I cut a second swimsuit from this. I have not matched stripes because the fabric was just left over bits. Amazingly its turned out pertty much pattern matched anyway which is really good but a complete accident. But then I suppose its easy matching stripes.
Unfortunately, I ran out of elastic so I think the arm holes are tighter than should be. Obviously with wear this will relax but its not the best finish ever. Now have some more elastic so will try to get time to finish version 3 in the next couple of days.My first purchase of elastic seems to have gone missing in the post.
 

Because I refuse to freeze outside - and also do not particularly want my neighbours staring at me in swimwear in Northamptonshire in January - these had to be taken on the doormat in the conservatory because its the only place bright enough so you will have to excuse the muddy floor and wellies in the photos.



 This version I overlocked the edges of all openings, but did not cut off any fabric so the edges are a bit "fluffy" but I have kept the seam allowance.


Then I used this edge to cover my elastic. Again stretch zigzag for openings and overlocked the inside seams. I did not sew the elastic first to the right side like the first version and then flip it over and zig zag on wrong side. I think this was a mistake because it came out a bit irregular so in future I will not skip that step.


I was worried this version would be too see -through but its Ok as it turns out but I have yet to find out when wet.That will have to wait for summer unless I try it first in the shower which is probably the best option rather than embarassment on the beach. Mind you in summer this will work really well as under my trousers and skirt made from the same fabric so if it does not work as a swimsuit I will wear it as a body even though it has no poppers under the crotch. It will not really matter if I am not wearing layers after all.

So other than my dodgy elastic on my arm holes, I think this is a great swimsuit. I still have version 3 to finish though which is made from yet another stashed fabric. I will show you that one in a few days time once its done.
If you would like to help perfect this block and wish to test the blocks then please email Ralph at testing@patternlab.london  to get involved in this project.

See you soon,
Bracken

Monday, 27 January 2020

Pattern testing - swimwear for Ralph Pink - Pattern Lab Swimsuit

I had an email from Pattern Lab land in my inbox just before Christmas asking for people to become pattern testers for swimwear for Pattern Lab / Ralph Pink. Well I was just trying to get back into sewing again and finding things pretty hard to do. I thought why not? I applied. I was so excited when Ralph got back to me and I became a proper pattern tester. It meant I actually have to do some sewing which I found very difficult when trying to get back into sewing after my op. Not just physically but I just lost all my motivation or creativity and its been a really good experience being a  pattern tester that I have enjoyed very much. Also out of pure chance this project fits in with Emerald Erin's Bra a week challenge. I do not intend to make a bra a week for a whole year but would like to make a few lingerie type items so this does make for a good start. I also really need more of these kind of items in my ever expanding wardrobe because I only seem to make outer clothing and its about time I got into making everything including undies and swimwear.

I have asked if its OK for me to blog about this and Ralph was happy for that and to let people know that this is still in testing phase and the blocks are not online just yet. But if people wish to test the blocks then please email Ralph at testing@patternlab.london  to get involved in this project.

Ralph sent me a basic high leg low from and back swimsuit block. I started off making in stretch dancewear type of velvet. My main reasoning really if I am honest is that I was trying to use up my stretch velvet bits and in theory it was stretchy enough.

I had to order elastic. Well, my elastic never arrived so having sewn the body together I was just waiting and in the end opted to use my fold over elastic which I bought loads of years ago and still have not used hardly any. Anyway bright green went really outrageously with the black velvet so I used that.






However I did not fold it over but added it like regular elastic and then folded back on itself making it half the width and its still a bit wide really but does work. I have since read that fold over elastic is OK for sunbathing which I never do and in the sea, but not in the pool so if you do this remember that else it may just fall to bits on you.


Despite my first attempt at sewing swimwear its lovely and fits well. Much better than my RTW clothing tho not sure how my stretch velvet would stand up to swimming. Its got an almost leotard look tho definitely is a swimwear pattern rather than leotard. Thats the fabric of course. I had to use fold over elastic since the elastic I ordered has apparently gone missing in the post, but I have not changed the seam allowance since did not fold it over. Or at least its folded onto itself rather than round the edges.  See photos below. Please ignore coffee stains on my table. This was thirsty work!

I had a few issues with the green of the elastic showing through or being pulled through the velvet but nothing to do with your pattern.

I suspect due to using a normal not ball point needle. You can hardly tell when its on. Of course I will always see this.

Used a stretch zigzag rather than normal zigzag for the elastic and overlocker for the main seams.




 
I do like the black velvet although not quite usual for swimwear.





I sent the first photos to Ralph for analysis. 


Ralph says is pulling at front and is therefore lower than it should be with high rise being quite low on the side seam and the plunging neckline being quite low. It is very low.
It feels OK and very comfortable but he is the expert and knows what it should look like.







From Ralphs feedback I decided to have a go at a second one. 

See my next post for that.
Thanks for popping by,
Bracken