Wednesday 17 July 2019

Review of Holland and Barrett new ethical products - Ethique

Firstly this is my own view only so I am writing to share this if you are interested in sustainability and have concerns about the many so called ethical products available on the cosmetics market.

I personally am particularly interested in vegan products having been a vegan since 1995 though I admit to a variety of lapses along the way. Generally I am vegan and most of the time since 1995 I have been a very good vegan. I am just a bit rubbish with for example milk chocolate and admit to a number of lapses over the years mainly around Christmas time. This is not excusing myself but explaining I am not claiming to be perfect here. I have been vegetarian since 1973.

I was quite impressed that finally H&B had got some proper shampoo and soaps in stock - as in solid no waste ethical products.

They look really good and I was very tempted to try these when I was offered a trial pack of each type in my emails. There are two Ethique trial packs both priced at £10.99 and ideal for holidays etc hence my sudden interest.

 


Don't they look pretty too?

Very want-able. However me being me I had a closer look at these before I bought them. I always check everything because I do not trust any cosmetics company. By the way these are vegan if you were wondering so better than many other products but read on...................
I did not bother analysing every ingredient. Most are familiar to me, because as I said, I check this sort of thing every time I buy anything. Even with products I have bought before because product ingredients change over time, so what was vegan one month may not be six months later so I generally know what most of the ingredients are without looking them up.

Have a look at this:
Ingredients:  
Pinkalicious - Solid Shampoo for Normal Hair Sodium coco-sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, stearic acid, aqua, decyl glucoside, Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, stearyl alcohol, glycerin, lactic acid, Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, cetyl alcohol, cocos nucifera (coconut) fruit, caprylic/capric triglyceride, Citrus paradisi (pink grapefruit) peel oil, sodium isethionate, limonene*, parfum^, behentrimonium methosulfate, mica, ci 77891, ci 77861. *Component of essential oil, ^certified natural. Wonderbar - Solid Conditioner for Oily or Normal Hair Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate, Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, parfum^, benzyl alcohol, panthenol, dehydroacetic acid, aqua, coumarin*. *Component of essential oil, ^certified natural. Bliss Bar - Solid Face Cleanser Sodium cocoyl isethionate, cocos nucifera (coconut) fruit, stearic acid, aqua, decyl glucoside, cocoyl methyl glucamide, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, glycerin, maltodextrin, sodium isethionate, cocos nucifera (coconut) fruit powder, benzyl alcohol, cyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar) gum, kaolin, dehydroacetic acid. Sweet Orange & Vanilla - Butter Block Caprylic/capric triglyceride, stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Orbignya oleifera seed oil, stearyl alcohol, hydrated silica, tapioca starch polymethylsilsesquioxane, lecithin, sodium lactate, tridecane, parfum^, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, aqua, undecane, dehydroacetic acid, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate*, limonene*, linalool*, citral*. *Component of essential oils, ^certified natural fragrance. Pinkalicious - Solid Shampoo for Normal Hair Sodium coco-sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, stearic acid, aqua, decyl glucoside, Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, stearyl alcohol, glycerin, lactic acid, Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, cetyl alcohol, cocos nucifera (coconut) fruit, caprylic/capric triglyceride, Citrus paradisi (pink grapefruit) peel oil, sodium isethionate, limonene*, parfum^, behentrimonium methosulfate, mica, ci 77891, ci 77861. *Component of essential oil, ^certified natural. Wonderbar - Solid Conditioner for Oily or Normal Hair Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate, Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, parfum^, benzyl alcohol, panthenol, dehydroacetic acid, aqua, coumarin*. *Component of essential oil, ^certified natural. Bliss Bar - Solid Face Cleanser Sodium cocoyl isethionate, cocos nucifera (coconut) fruit, stearic acid, aqua, decyl glucoside, cocoyl methyl glucamide, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, glycerin, maltodextrin, sodium isethionate, cocos nucifera (coconut) fruit powder, benzyl alcohol, cyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar) gum, kaolin, dehydroacetic acid. Sweet Orange & Vanilla - Butter Block Caprylic/capric triglyceride, stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, Theobroma cacao seed butter, Orbignya oleifera seed oil, stearyl alcohol, hydrated silica, tapioca starch polymethylsilsesquioxane, lecithin, sodium lactate, tridecane, parfum^, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, aqua, undecane, dehydroacetic acid, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate*, limonene*, linalool*, citral*. *Component of essential oils, ^certified natural fragrance.


So a long list of mainly pretty good for you ingredients. I know many companies reckon behentrimonium methosulfate is safe and it is derived from vegetabe oil. Its marketed as a really good hair conditioner because it does not wash off the hair so coats it and leaves it feeling soft and conditioned. And thats the point! It coats the hair and does not wash off. Many people have reviewed this ingredient and such as this link below have worries about this ingredient:

 https://healthnwellness.co.uk/organic-cosmetics-with-toxic-substances-how-to-spot-them-and-avoid-them/

"Quaternary ammonium salts

In organic cosmetics, quaternary ammonium salts are forbidden, except for certain labels which allow BTMS (Behentrimonium methosulfate). These are irritants and they are non-biodegradable. This silicone substitute is often present in shampoos and conditioners for its detangling properties. Avoid the following, because they stick fast to your hair and skin and can smother it, just like silicone:
  • Behentrimonium Methosulfate"

NON- BIODEGRADEABLE to me cannot mean sustainable!



Of course you cannot trust everything you find through Google and these are from a health shop - ie Holland and Barrett. so I looked a bit further. The following table is from here https://www.ewg.org/guides/substances/604-BEHENTRIMONIUMMETHOSULFATE

EWG are based in the US. EWG = The Environmental Working Group and their
"mission is to empower people to live healthier lives in a healthier environment. With breakthrough research and education, we drive consumer choice and civic action.

We are a non-profit, non-partisan organization dedicated to protecting human health and the environment.  "

I think I prefer to trust them than to trust H&B on this one.

TABLE FROM EWG SITE

Evidence

Health issue
Level of Concern
Source
Asthmagen (allergic)
moderate
AOEC Asthmagen list - AOEC
European Union Ecolabel program data shows this substance has high chronic toxicity to aquatic life
some
Detergents Ingredients Database - EU Ecolabel
European Union Ecolabel program data shows this substance has very high acute toxicity to aquatic life
some
Detergents Ingredients Database - EU Ecolabel
Asthmagen
some
AOEC Asthmagen list - AOEC
A peer-reviewed publication reports quaternary ammonium compounds cause reproductive toxicity in animals.
some
Vanessa E. Melin, Travis E. Melin, Brian J. Dessify, Christina T. Nguyen, Caroline S. Shea & Terry C. Hrubec. 2015. Quaternary Ammonium Disinfectants Cause Subfertility in Mice by Targeting both Male and Female Reproductive Processes. Reproductive toxicology (Elmsford, N.Y.).
A peer-reviewed publication reports quaternary ammonium compounds cause reproductive toxicity in animals.
some
Vanessa E. Melin, Haritha Potineni, Patricia Hunt, Jodi Griswold, Bill Siems, Stephen R. Werre & Terry C. Hrubec. 2014. Exposure to common quaternary ammonium disinfectants decreases fertility in mice. Reproductive toxicology (Elmsford, N.Y.) 50, 163-70.
Causes serious eye damage
Only in: Household Cleaners
some
GHS Data from ECHA Website - European Chemicals Agency (ECHA)
Causes skin irritation
Only in: Household Cleaners
some
GHS Data from ECHA Website - European Chemicals Agency (ECHA)
causes serious eye irritation
Only in: Household Cleaners
some
GHS Data from ECHA Website - European Chemicals Agency (ECHA)
The European Union Ecolabel program reports this substance in inherently biodegradable.
low
Detergents Ingredients Database - EU Ecolabel

So anyway having found out all this I thought I would share it with you so you can make an informed decision as to whether you want this so called ethical product.

Personally I will not be buying it.

I have written a review about this on the Holland and Barrett website but I suspect they will remove it because it will stop people from being informed about their NON-SUSTAINABLE new product which of course they will want to sell lots of.

Bracken

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