This
then is made from 3 different types of yarn from people selling their
odd balls on Ebay.
Throughout the whole jumper and what ties it all
together is a fourth yarn which is glittery - yes glitter again-
prismatic embroidery thread. I watched a Youtube video a few months ago
where a crocheter used two strands - one of yarn and one of this glittery
thread ( or something very similar) and I liked the effect so bought some not knowing what to do with
it. Amazon has lots of options for this stuff.
I actually bought the pack of 6 spools in the link, and you get a lot for your
money. I used less than half of one reel for the entire jumper.
The
effect of the glitter thread which I have to admit is a pain to knit
with, because you find you do not always pick up both threads, is it ties
3 similar but different yarns into a whole, making it look like its all
one yarn. I still have lots of this glittery stuff so will be using it again at some
point. You are supposed to be able to embroider with it as well though
thats not what I got it for. Really I was just curious.
I started off with the idea of using this pattern:
but
no matter how many times I started over I simply could not get the
pattern to work. I think there is an error in the stitch count but I could
be wrong. Maybe its just me!
I did start to try to work it out and I should be able to have done
that, but I kind of went off on a tangent and did my own thing entirely
and its very successful.
Its also incredible with added gliter how some odd balls of similar colours, knitted into stripes in an aran can turn out and it also goes quite well with my
glitter sweat pants which I made the other
week. Or I think so anyway!
Its pure chance this all got finished at similar times and goes
together and just as its gone cold and was snowing again when some of these photos were taken, and I am very
happy the way its worked out. It got warmer a few days later when I got the rest of the pictures taken.
I have previously done a basic cable jumper with no pattern but never
something quite as complicated as this was and I have to say I really
enjoyed knitting this and seeing how it evolved.
Its not a bad length being the same as my red aran.
Its perfect for wearing as a spring jumper and with work clothing
because my work place will not like my love of very long almost dresses
jumpers. And it tones really nicely with my glittery tracksuit. Tho the
other half says they do not go well at all. I rarely listen to his
opinion I have to admit.
I had a very small quantity of each
yarn so had to be very careful what I did with this so I had enough
hence it could perhaps have been a tad longer but there was not enough
yarn.
I am a 34 inch or 85cm bust and you can see the fit.
There was not much left from this. I used the following:
Spunlaine mohair 25g balls = 10 pale blue
Mohair melange 25g balls = 6 pale blue multi
Copley mohair elegance 25g balls = 7 grey multi
The
Spunlaine is used to cast on ( doubled) and then used this for a stripe every other 2 rows
but except for casting on the rest was done in a single thread. All bobbles and cables are done on the Spunlaine rows.
The
C6 ( cable 6 stitches) is done every second Spunlaine row and the C9 ( cable 9 stitches) every third Spunlaine row so
on some rows you do all cables, some you do the C9 and not the C6 and
on other just the cables twist which is the C2 ( cable 2 stitches to give a twisted rib) rows.
In effect
then you use more of the Spunlaine than the other two yarns meaning it
kind of becomes one colour overall. Especially with the glitter thread
running throughout and tying it all together
I did a sequence
throughout this of Spunlaine 2 rows, Blue melange multi 2 rows,
Spunlaine 2 rows, Grey Copley multi 2 rows, Spunlaine 2 rows etc.
Ribbing is 5.5mm needles and single rib using aran type of cast on but normal k1, p1 rib, not aran ribbing. I was aware I needed to redce the yarn useage to minimum to gte it out of just these balls of yarn. Aran rib would have used up more and being mohair may not have shown up anyway.
Body is all in 6.5mm needles.
For
the pattern at the moment I have only this chart which is below but
will update once I get my head round the new software I have downloaded.
Front and Back alike except for neck shaping:
Cast on 67 stitches and rib for 4cm
Increase to 82 st ending on right side row.
Now use 6.5mm needle.
Set pattern on wrong side so your edge stitches are in knit (and right side they will be in purl):
This is pretty rubbish but the best I can do right now.
Red
are Cable rows. I am not sure you can see here very well. If you want a
better copy before I am able to post a good chart then email me and I
will send it you.
C6
means pass 3 stitches onto cable needle to back of work and then k3 off
needle then k3 off cable needle.I did all C6 cables in the same
direction but you could reverse for each side of the jumper. That means
the central C6 though may look a bit weird hence I did not do it.
C9
( always on a spunlaine pale blue row) means pass 3st onto cable needle
to back of work on the first cable row then k 3 off needle, k the next
3 stitches;
Next
spunlaine row, K 3 stitches then 3 stitches on a cable needle to front
of work, k3 then k 3 off the needle, This gives a 3 strand plait.
C2 is twisted rib. On ever knit row pass 1st onto cable needle, kit next stitch then knit off cable needle.
B1 means k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 into stitch then pass 2nd to 5th stitch over the first stitch to give small bobble.
All reverse rows are purl on all cables and bobbles. All Right side purl rows are knit rows in reverse rows.
For
the back I knitted in the pattern until I had 20 bobbles. Then on the
next Spunlaine row I cast off 27 stitches for each shoulder and put the
centre 26 the stitches on a stitch holder.
For
the front I knitted until there were 15 bobble rows. On the 16th bobble
row I shaped the neck: pattern for 34 st, 12 stitches on centre stitch
holder for neck. On return I decreased on neck edge on every row for 14
rows so that only part of the C9 cables was left (7st on each cable)
this does mean there is a very slight difference in the C9 which is a
plait cable due to the different sides being decreased but it seems to
look ok once made up.
The rows if you want them written out go as follows:
R1: Set pattern on reverse with WS facing you in pale blue:
R2:
P3, B1, P1, C6, P1, B1, P1, C2, P1, B1, P1, C6, P1, C9, P1, B1, P1, C6,
P1, B1, P1, C9, P1, C6, P1, B1, P1, C2, P1, B1, P1, C6, P1, B1, P3
Then
you follow the various patterns above to complete the bobbles and
cables and just keep repeating the pattern every 14 rows.
Repeat pattern.
Sleeves.
I
used a different stitch group. Cast on ( 5.5mm needles) 26 stitches -
check this becuse my sleeves are quite "fitted" and you may want looser
in which case increase number of P stitches on each side of pattern
panels.
Ribbing for about 4cm - ish then increase 1 stitch at each end of row.
Change to 6.5mm needles.
No chart yet for this:
Wrong side set pattern:
K4, P6, K1, P1, K1,P2,K1,P1,K1,P6,K4
Right side
P4; Cable knitwise C6, P1, B1 ( bobble), P1, C2, P1, B1, P1, C6, P4
I
increased evenly about every 5-6 rows at each end of row until 48
stitches and 20 bobble repeats. I endd on a Spunlaine row but did not do
the 21st bobble I just cast off here. I used a 9mm needle to cast off
because I find it gives a stretchier edge but thats just my preference.
Note I like very long sleeves most people wear them much shorter.
Neck:
I did a double layer crew neck. Put back 26 stitches from back neck on a
circular needle picked up 10 stitches down front side of neck, knitted
the 12 CF stitches off needle holder, then picked up 10 stitches on the
other side. ( Note I did not keep a note of this but I seem to remember
having to knit 2 stitches together to get the k1,p1, rib to work round
the neck. I may be wrong though. Just check you end up with ribbing not
moss stitch!). Total stitches for neck ribbing = 58stitches.
Rib
in the pale blue, multi, grey pattern for as deep as you like your neck
then with R side facing you do one row of all purl stitches, go back to
ribbing until the second part is the same length as the first bit. The
Purl row means you get a nice edge when you fold the neck over and sew
it down on the wrong side. Sew in any odd ends and side seams etc.
And thats it. Next time though I may have to attempt to increase to give all over cables on the sleeves. The sides here are just reversed stocking stitch.
I
will try to do a proper chart for this with my software and then try to
make another similar one in a different yarn but the same gauge - eg
chunky/ mohair to check it works. More later on that tho when, and if, I manage to work out what to do with it.
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