Swirly Goth Cardigan Coat.

I have been looking at very long swirly black cardigan coats for around a year now but I just never found one cheap enough or that I liked enough to actually pay out the £50- plus they seem to cost. They are just so expensive! The one I liked best was £74 plus postage on top.

Well what to do? Make one of course.

I bought this fabric just before Christmas. Had no idea at all what to do with it so to be on the safeside I got 4m of it. Well that covers all but the very large full length cloak patterns which I must admit I fancy making but so far haven't got round to. I do not right now though want to make a cloak. I want something I can wear for spring in both the office at work, and on dog walks, as well as shopping, or going out for dinner etc.

 The fabric was just £1.25 a metre hence I bought it because when I had a look online its seems to usually be around £10 a metre for this quilted sweatshirt type of fabric, and this also is snake print well its quilted actually but this is snakeskin pattern whereas most are just diamonds quilts or other boring "prints".

 I previously used this kind of fabrc for the warm black top I made at the start of my sewing journey.

 

 

I still have this top though keep thinking I should either add mitts or cuffs because the sleeves are too short for me. But I still wear this after all those years. Its not very well made at all but is warm and wearable and as you can see has a diamond quilting. I made it in 2015 so its old now.

This snakeskin fabric has a shiny side which I used for the inside and a matt more cotton looking side used for the outside. I do not have a clue what the fibre content is but suspect its polyester. Really you could make a feature of the matt/ shiny aspects in panels but I didn't. I went with matt on the outside.

Then the pattern. Well I now possess around 100 Burdas, Patrones. La Mia Boutique, My Image etc yet despite many days of perusing them could not locate the right pattern for what I want. 

What to do? I ended up with a large pile of possible patterns but still at the end of over a week of looking cannot decide. Then by chance I am looking at my Rebecca Page downloads and remember Stella. Stella is a coat pattern I bought ages ago but have never got round to making.

I do not want a coat tho but the basic shape I am thinking of is similar. Sort of high low. I do want pockets but not the type on Stella and I definitely do not want a lining because I want a Cardi-coat. 

I print Stella and stick together still unsure what I am going to do or even if I will use it but then its a pattern I do want to make at some point so not a complete waste to stick it together anyway. 

After another week or so of thinking, I come to the conclusion I want the double front on Stella. Having analysed the construction of lots of waterfall front tops and jackets my conclusion is when left open and made in drapey fabric the Stella front will act like a waterfall front. So I want the CF panel but not the pockets! 

I decide on easy inset pockets and I want a hood. Stella has no collar or hood. The hood from my favourite Burda sweatshirt pattern 103, 01/2017, if lengthened at centre front neck should fit onto the neck of Stella so thats one thing solved. But how to do the front and back?

Well the back is easy because I want exactly what Stella is a Low back grading higher at the front. I miss out the back half belt. I was in two minds whetehr to eliminate the CB seam but then I would have to go off grain to keep the godet type hem which I want so decide to stick with Stella ad cut two CB pieces and seam them. 

I realised the lining parts of Stella side front will work and that will elininate the pockets so I can basically swap the Stella lining pieces for the Stella outers and get what I want to make - I think. But then the fabric was only £5. Not that I want to waste it because it will cost a lot more to replace my 4m of this and probably I cannot get a snakeskin print either but its still a reasonable financial risk for what I am attempting. And now its complete I am so glad I carried on with this idea. I was seriously worried whether to risk cutting this for such an experimental idea.

So I cut the back pieces and the front  pieces and side front lining pieces - adding a couple of inches to the hems where normally a lining is a bit shorter because I do not want to waste all day working out the differences I need to add and I reckon around 3 inches or 7.5cm will work. Later I cut most of this off though so it was probably an unecessary waste of the fabric really. 

Cut the CF - again also adding a few inches length.

I cut the hood from the Burda pattern and grade it out a bit so it should fit the neck of Stella. Well I actually cut most of this extra bit off later but at least it was all safe!

 

I think the extra depth at front neck works better too and gives more to play with fitting-wise.

To make a sleeve I pinned both outer sleeve and inner sleeve pattern pieces together, then cut out whilst adding length - just to make sure. Previous experience tells me I need to lengthen most sleeves and RP patterns are no exception. In fact if I make another of these I will add an extra inch at the centre of the sleeves because they are a bit too narrow for me so I cannot wear a sweatshirt underneath. I also had this with the RP sweater cape so maybe its an RP issue and again I need to consider this for future RP coat patterns. I still have quite a few I bought I have not yet made and narrow sleeves seems to be an issue with RP coats ( so far anyway!).

 

So now I have all my coat parts - nearly. 

I want mitts on this because its a kind of sweatshirt and I love them. I have Raynauds and mitts make my life much more comfortable. I used the mitts pattern from the Make Your Own Activewear book by Melissa Feyre. This is so far the best mitts pattern I have found and I have tried a few.  

I have started to add this to all my tops recently. Its tricky to sew but lovely to wear. I have since found a much better and neater and easier way to sew these mitts, - see the post on 1st May 22 for details on that. I made this earlier though before I worked that out. They still work but are not so neat.

Then having got to this stage I could not sew it up because my overlocker blades were still in transit from China. Once I had the overlocker back in action I sewed this up in a weekend. Good thing I had sharp new blades. I suspect in fact I maye even need new ones much sooner than usual. This fabric is thick and very hard to sew especially where the mitts join the sleeves ( and there are 6 layers!) and I had to use a regular machine to reinforce that after it got stuck the second time. If I make another of these in this kind of fabric I would sew the overlocked edge to the sleeve and mitts seperately then use a machine to sew together. Normally I overlock it all - which I did but it was a struggle and I was worried I might wreck this after my second block-up.  Very risky and far too thick fabric and by that time I was looking at this thinking I was going to love it so did not want to wreck it right at the end!

Here you can see how my waterfall front really does work:

 With the front done up it has a kind of Assassins Creed feel too. Or a post apocalypic feel.

Though I am going to have to sew that second press stud to the other side of the neck!

The neck is imperfect because I was going to sew a hem along front edges but I think they will hang better without so the ends got turned under at high neck and then I changed my mind. I do not mind this small imperfection. The closure is a simple press stud on one side of the neck because I hate hand sewing but I definitely need to add another.  

Otherwise, I will be constantly adjusting it when the front comes undone. Thats OK on a sunny day like today but will be awful in the rain and wind which will be bound to come soon - being the UK. Ignore the black bag at the side. Its not full of rubbish but full of logs for the woodburner. We need to build a new log store but things take time and we do not want to kiln dried wood (which we paid extra to get kiln dried) getting too damp. Its not ideal but the best we have right now.

I was originally going to add hems but I like the flowingness of the simple overlocked edges so that idea got scrapped. I think they hang better without hems as you can see on my old top which is similar fabric too. It does not hang well because its too bulky.

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And the back is just so gothically wow! I love the back best of all:

 

I am very pleased with how this has turned out because the planning took weeks, the cutting was extended because I was so scared it would all go wrong. The hoody neck was the hardest bit to work out in this design when I was sewing it up - as in how to actualy join the front neck to hood neck at CF. I actually stopped and left it overnight and just thought how to do that bit best.  The actual sewing though was really fast and on top of all this it fits perfectly with this years theme of a Faery fashion look as well as working with my winter goth look that seems to return each year.  

Though perhaps by then it might be retired because I think this fabric being sweatshirty will pill and probably this is a coat for a season or two, then I will need a new one. Still I now have a pattern and design that works and these blog post notes to remind me how I did it. So useful blogs for recording as well as connecting with like minded people. The worst bit was really having to hand sew the press stud on one side of the neck. Though tomorrow I will have to sew a second one now I know I need that. Still not the end of the world really to get exactly what you were dreaming of for just about £5 ish including the sewing thread and press studs that I already owned.

What a total success!

Its rare I truly feel this happy with what I make but yes this time I do.

I am also wearing me made tiger leggings and a red vest top that I made thats so long ago I do not think it ever made my blog. 

Happy Me Made May and thanks for popping over,

Bracken

Circuit board leggings

This is the same fabric I used for my dress and reminds me of circuit boards so its sort of a small bit Steampunk - in my head anyway.  Its made from the left over bits from both my dress and top. I have been wearing these items a lot in the past couple of months so really wanted to make something else. The fabric was really cheap but is a good quality lycra stretch which would I think even make good swimwear. Just I am not currently going anywhere to wear swimwear and if I do go on holiday in the UK I will probably go in the sea in a wetsuit since its going to be very cold even in the middle of summer. In fact the best time to go swimming here is end of September/ October when the sea has finally warmed up to bearable - when wearing a wetsuit!

So back to these leggings:

These leggings are made using my now ancient TNT pattern so nothing particularly stressful about this make which I suppose explains how I managed two items in the couple of days taken to sew them. I am must faster than I was a few years ago and with TNT patterns its just so easy. I have no idea how many times this pattern has been used before - seriously loads. 

I know what I need to do to get them to fit etc. I used to take a week to make a pair of leggings from this pattern so if you do  .....that carry on. It gets easier. I tend to make leggings alongside something else much harder these days - in this case the black swirly coat I made a few days ago.

There is not really much more to say about these. They are just leggings!

They are being worn here with my navy glittery hoody which I would love to make another of but the fabric is just too expensive. I must have been feeling rich the day I bought that!

Have a great day and see you tomorrow with more #MMM22 makes.

Bracken

Red Lace hand knit dress - free pattern, #MMM22

 

One thing I kept seeing and liking in Krakow was the knitted dresses. I suspect they will be common on the High Street here as well but I rarely go proper shopping other than for DIY or food so I couldn't be sure.

So I decided to design my own. This is my pattern which I will give you for free if you want to make this.

Its exactly the same simple lace stitch I used for this jumper here: https://brackencrafts.blogspot.com/2021/08/lace-free-knitting-pattern.html

Though does have a different number of stitches for the skirt than for the jumper. It takes 6x 50g balls of Hayfield mohair. The yarn is vintage from Ebay but I think any chunky/ aran weight mohair will work for this. Using 5.5mm needles throughout. Its knitted from the hem up as follows:

LACE PATTERN: Pattern is multiples of 11, + 2 (to make up the end of the pattern), + 2 (edging stitches)

Knit edge stitch every row.  There is no ribbing so you knit two rows of garter stitch then go straight into the lace stitch which gives a nice wavy edge. I used the aran cast on for this one. Last time I used a stretchy cast on but time has made me think an aran cast on would be fine and maybe keep this in shape more than the last version which is a bit baggy and out of shape after several months being worn and washed. This is totally different yarn though being 78% mohair and is much lighter and uses smaller sized needles. Needles used for this: 5.5mm.

Front and Back

Cast on 92 stitches using the 5.5mm needles.

3 rows knit = plain garter st.

Set the pattern – Row 1: 1 edge st k, *2p,   yarn over to make hole(h), 3k, knit 3tog, 3k. h,** , Repeat from *to ** until last 3 stitches, 2p, 1 edge st k.

Row 2 and every reverse row is:  purl all holes and purl all knit stitches, knit all purl stitches and knit the edge stitches.  Right side row: pattern as rows 1, 3, 5, 7 on chart.

Follow chart to complete the next 14 rows - 7 rows of pattern and 7 return rows. 

Chart: On the right hand side the numbers are for different rows.

Codes used: knit 3 stitches together

↑ =knit 3 stitches together

 0 = yarn over to make a hole ( h in written pattern)

-  = knit

.  = purl

 

	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9	10	11	12	13
.	-	-				0	↑	0				-	-	.	7
.	-	-			0		↑		0			-	-	.	5
.	-	-		0			↑			0		-	-	.	3
.	-	-	0				↑				0	-	-	.	1

 

 After 8 pattern repeats ( so 8 x14rows) you need to decrease for the ribbed bodice as follows: 

Decrease row:edge stitch (*P2, K1, K2 tog, P2 tog, P2 tog, K2** P2) edge stitch.  Repeat from * to **. You should have 68 stitches. Now continue in edge stitch, K2 P2 rib edge stitch for 13 inches or 33cm. End in a purl row. You should now have a nice even transition from the lace into the ribbing.

1) Shape LEFT SIDE : Note do all c/o stitches in knit regardless of if on a knit or purl stitch so they look good from Right Side afterwards: cast off 4 stitches, Rib to end, edge st.

2) Next row: Cast off 4 stithces  rib to end, edge st.

3) Next row: Slip one stitch knitwise, K1, K2 stithces tog, rib to last 4 stitches then Knit 2 stitches together, K1, edge st.

4)  Next row: Slip one stitch knitwise, K1, K2 stithces tog, rib to last 4 stitches then Knit 2 stitches together, K1, edge st.You should now have 58 stitches.

Repeat 3 and 4  once more.

5) Decrease: Slip one stitch knitwise, K1, K2 stithces tog, Rib 17 Cast off central 6 stitches. Knit until last 3 stitches then K2 tog Knit 1.

You should have 18 stitches left on Left side. Ignore right hand side.

6) Decreases: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, K2 tog, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.

7) Next row: slip 1st then rib to end of row.

Repeat 6 and 7 6 times more until 6 stitches remain and they are all now knit with no ribbing. So you are now just doing knit on RS and purl on WS for straps. 

8) Slip 1knitwise, k1, k2 tog, twice, k to last stictch. 5 stitches.

9) Slip one purlwise, p1, p2 tog, p to last st p to last st. 4 stitches,

10) K2st tog twice = 2 stitches

11)  p2

12) K2

 Repeat 11 and 12 onwards until your straps are long enough for you so about 4-6 inches. Knit 2 tog and then pul wool through last stitch to cast off.

Right side: Turn work so wrong side of fabric is facing. Rejoin the yarn to RHS of the stitches on needle. 

13) Slip 1 knitwise, k1, k2tog, rib to end, edge stitch.

14) Slip 1, K1, k2 tog, rib until last 3 stithces, k2 tog, k1

15) Slip 1 rib to end of row.

16) Repeat 14 and 15 6 more times. 

17) Repeat 8 to 12.

Make the front exactly as back. Sew up side seams matching the notches made by the edge stitches. Sew the straps together very carefully and weave in end of yarn so its hidden.

Congratulations on your new knitted dress.

 

 I am happy enough with how this turned out for a first attempt. Its very cozy and since its turned cold here thats great but I think perhaps next time I will have a bit more shaping at the waist. But its ok for a first version and I will be wearing this lot over the rest of the spring on colder days anyway.

Its comfy, cuddly and cozy but does need an underlayer else I find the yarn a bit itchy. Normally I use mohair y gold top underneath though this is really good. for outer wear not next to my skin. Might have to use a more acrylic or cotton type for my next version. With my gold top under it though its great. And if you do find any errors in the above pattern please let me know so I can correct. I have only made it once so until I check by reknitting I will not know.

This post was begun back in April but took me ages to write, so its now May. Happy Me Made May to everyone! #MMM22

Thanks for popping by my blog, I will be attempting to post daily over the rest of this month so do pop back won't you and if you are taking part in #MMM22 please do leave me a comment so I can pop over and see what you are doing.

Until tomorrow:

Bracken

#MMM22 - 2nd May

 

The jumper which I am very proud of having made is far too warm now so its time to store it till next winter. Because these photos were taken on a dog walk I ended up carrying my jumper most of the way due to the lovely May sunshine. Its not hot yet either but this jumper is far too warm now.

Under it I wore my very worn out black top which was made from scraps so every bit is a different fabric.

This is really ready for the bin so I was not even sure about posting this one. Still I did make this and did wear it possibly for the very last time unless we do some decorating or similar. Its a shame because I have loved this top which is probably what its so worn. Its got loads of "pulls " in the front ladder lace. I will retrieve the front lining fabric though because its a really high quality power mesh and will at the very least work as an isert on a pair of leggings or the back of a vest or something similar. I am currently thinking of the exercise top I saw a while back and sourcing fabric for this and it seems to me the power mesh would work in the back panel of this top. Especially since I have now finalised my pattern choices for this top which was just an idea a few weeks ago. My original ideas on that have changed a bit but I will post on that once I have actually sewn it up. 

The trousers are my newer pair of grey sweatshirt trousers which I only finished earlier in the day.

Thanks for visitig my blog, Have a great day,

Bracken

Grey glittery sweatshirt trousers 2

 

I made these to go with the sweatshirt I showed you yesterday. Thoguh you cannot see the glitter on the pictures - sadly. Its very glittery. I wore the other one to go to Poland and got stopped and Xrayed going through customs cos of the fact the glitter showed up as metal all over my body. I had to have an xray to check it wasn't guns etc.  On the way back I packed it and wore something else to stop the hassle of being checked again. 

 

Having made these Lekala Sportwear pants loads of times before its a very fast make.ike the sweatshirt these are amazingly cuddly. My old ones are totally worn out. Its actually a bit too warm for these today so I will have to change in a bit.

I added a row of plain stitching round the raw hems on this pair to hopefully stop the side seams coming undone when worn. That has been a problem with the other pair though I have yet to get round to sewing them up. I think this hem is more professional though and it still keeps the raw edge I wanted to have. Though I reckon this pair is just slightly longer than my last version. I do turn those hems up on the other pair too when for example its wet underfoot but these seem to need it more. I may need to update them but today is my first wearing so will see how that goes.

The last pair are pretty much identical to these except I used my most recent lycra scraps with circuit board print for the pocket linings so they will sort of match my dress that I made a while ago.  The dress is short eough to also work as a top. 

The real difference here is the first pair HAD to have contrasting pocket linings due to lack of fabric but this time I made a CHOICE to have them because I liked it on the previous pair.

 I now also have a top as well in that fabric so will wear that some time in the next month to show you.

Happy #MMM22

See you tomorrow

Bracken

#MMM22 May 1st 2022 - in the Garden

May 1st 2022

As well as finishing sewing my grey glitter sweatshirt I also did quite a bit of gardening yesterday. I wore some old clothes for this but all me made though a bit worn out these days. I suspect these with the exception of my green vest top will be recycled pretty soon so may be the last few wearings of these trousers and stripey top.

Here is my top which I love and yet seem not to have worn much but I really think I should make some more of these. Its scuba and so is quite a stiff fabric but still comfy. I made a skirt and halterneck from thsi fabric too and they are wonderful summer clothes (for the UK because they would be too hot in much of Europe and the warmer parts of the world.

The stripey top I actually made for work. Its not quite correct - as in I had not enough fabric - so the stripes on the sleeves go different directions. Most people never notice. Still despite this its a great top though I must admit to being a bit bored with it. Time I made a few boring work tops instead of what I have been interested in the past few months maybe. I need some new changes to wear for work. This certainly doesn't fit well into a Fae theme though perhaps my more mystical vest top could do?

Black track pants - well I have never much liked these. Its a Burda summer pattern and they are meant to be made in lighter weight woven fabric. Also I used the loopey side of the terry so they are the wrong way round really fabric wise. Thats not such a problem. It was an experiment that I will not repeat. They were great to take to Scotland last year and were warm when it was cold and rainy but they are past there best now. Still ok for the garden though.

Happy #MMM22 

Bracken

New improved Glittery Sweatshirt with added Mitts

 

I have to be honest this is not a unique make. This is a pretty much identical make to my old glittery grey sweatshirt I made last year so not at all original or even really new though it is a new top. I used the same Burda pattern but it does have a couple of updates. I made the hem band wider because I like the purple velvet one I made with a wider hem band and I also added mitts.

Also I changed how I sew up the mitts,  which are from Melissa Feyrs book on Activewear, and its a much neater result- and much less fiddly as well. 

I suddently remembered how when you sew the gusset on knickers you kind of flip them inside out to sew everything up neat and decided this should work for the mitts on tops. Probably its what Melissa Feyr's book intends but until this top I never sussed this out.

I think it will make my future built in mitts much neater and more professional though which makes me very happy.

When I wore this I was shocked at how thin my old version is now. 

Well worn I suppose. This is so cuddly.

The pocket is much better finished and sewn than any of my previous versions of this pattern. It actually could really be RTW.

Its worn with the navy glittery narrow leg trousers. I have cut a pair of grey ones now as well to match this top but not yet finished sewing them. They are going to be wider legged than these navy ones though. Variety is good I find.

So this is not actually a new make but a repeat. 

 

When I asked Mick to take photos of it he actually said " Why" I have taken loads of that oe before" so its really a very good copy of my first top!

Its a total repeat because its even in the same fabric and from the same seller though I did buy an extra metre this time knowing I had difficulty to get trousers and top from the amount I bought last time. I have yet to sew up the trousers for this but will I think also manage to squeeze either a small Tshirt or a skirt from what is left. Bonus!And last time it took me two days and much stress working out how to get both top and trousers from the fabric I had bought.

And in the end if you do make something you totally love and wear then thats got to be an item to repeat so thats what I have done here. And maybe if I manage to still get more fabric I might even make another next year!

 

Thanks for popping by my blog, I will be attempting to post daily over the rest of this month so do pop back won't you and if you are taking part in #MMM22 please do leave me a comment so I can pop over and see what you are doing. 

Have a lovely day and thanks for poppin' over,

Bracken